Type: Sport, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 859 total · 6/month
Shared By: Rich F. on Jul 8, 2012
Admins: Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Climb starts just to the right side of the short chimney (with the scraggly pine tree above it) on the south side of the spire. The crux is only a few moves and is down low, around the 3rd bolt -- but the crux and the entire climb are very well protected with bolts until the last 12 feet to the summit. There are about 10 new bolts on the climb that lead to an anchor on the "ridge" with a large chain link attached to it. There is another anchor with a single link a foot above and to the right of that anchor (other side of the narrow ridge), so it appears that the climb ends there -- about 12 feet short of the summit. However, it's an easy (5.5ish) climb to the summit from those intermediate anchors, and the summit has a two bolt anchor with short chains on top. The summit also has great views, so it's well worth going all the way to the top.

Location Suggest change

On the south side of the spire is chimney like formation with a scraggly pine tree just above it. This route starts on the shoulder just right of this chimney and below the scraggly pine. It is easily identified by the many bolts going up with pretty close spacing.

Protection Suggest change

10 or 11 quickdraws. You can also place trad gear in the two cracks about halfway up, but the new bolts are close enough together that the extra gear is unnecessary.

Photos

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