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Eiger

Original Post
patrick morrow · · lafayette · Joined Jun 2003 · Points: 10

Does anyone have any beta on climbing the eiger, guide service, best time of year, crowds ,etc. I am looking at the mittellegi ridge next summer. Has anyone soloed the route?
Thanks

ze dirtbag · · Tahoe · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 50
FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

The movie, "The Eiger Sanction," will tell you everything you need to know.

Yeego Yi'naa · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 35

The book, "The White Spider" by Heinrich Harrer will be more helpful.

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974

Did the Mittelegi with my wife about 20 years ago.

You take the train to a tunnel, pop out onto a glacier and climb to the hut. Wouldn't have wanted to solo the glacier personally, but not very broken then. Can't say what has happeend in the last 20 years.

I think we were off route getting to the hut. Had to climb some fairly sketchy unprotectable slabs in our SuperGuides.

The ridge itself had hawser thickness fixed ropes, we might have simul'ed the whole thing or belayed bits. Really a cool place to be, although you look out over the Lauper route, not the Heckmair N Face.

The descent down the West face is a little confusing and long. I seem to recall a couple of spots where you could approach the edge and see the true N Face.
Altogether a great outing.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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