Lunar Ecstasy Aid Solo

Hello there,

Just finished a write up on a solo ascent of Lunar Ecstasy in Zion. Hope some may find it entertaining.

www.mattkuehl.blogspot.com

or

mattkuehl.blogspot.com/2015…

Matt

I really enjoyed reading that. You did a great job of describing the self-doubts associated with rope soloing. I found it relatable and entertaining

Fantastic writeup. The part about the offset cam in the dark had me laughing.

Great write up! Building solo anchors in sandstone has always sketched me! Where the heck did you find one for the first pitch, tie off to some weeds...How was the weather when you did it? My partner and I were thinking of heading up this weekend to do Lunar but looks like its going to be in the mid 80's to hot in the sun..does it go in the shade early?

Cheers!

great write up thanks for posting, I soloed this and had an amazing experience. Only thing was, I had a throbbing toothache that kept me awake. The Jarrett finish is a rad way to finish

Nice!

Puked my pants! Never heard that but I liked it! If you become interested in tackling walls and long free routes with a speed climbing mentality, send me message! I can show you a few tricks and I've got a goal to link two Zion walls In a day

ho was the hardware? I was thinking of getting a partner or soloing it later and spending 2-3 days to replace all the bolts with glue In's and chains

Thanks everyone!

For my first anchor I think I had 3 cams in a downward facing horizontal crack. It seemed alright but I considered slinging a bush too. It was a little hot but since I started late I only had the next morning and early afternoon in the sun. I wore a sun-hoody with the hood up most of the time to fight the sun. I would estimate it goes into the shade around 3pm but I wasn't keeping close tabs on time.

Rob, the hardware all seemed fine. There were some old bolts far spaced at the ledges but they were the furtherest out bolts typically just used to hang the rope etc. I guess it would be pretty sweet to have all fresh glue in anchor bolts though! Pro bolts were fine, I liked the bolt stud with the angle piton sticking out on pitch 5 and I thought it gave the bolt ladder more character. I may skip on the chain, you can still retreat if needed as is and I don't think it needs to be equipped with chain as a rappel route. Just my thoughts. The anchors at the top of 7th (on the first ledge after the headwall) had long bolt studs that stuck out and interfered with the spine of the carabiner when loaded for an upwards pull. This was probably the only notable place I felt a need for improvement. Quicklinks would solve this here. Check it out and use your best judgment on what to do.

the bundles of tatt are what i want to stop with the chain.

It would be an improvement no doubt

last time i was there it was as thick as my arm.

Nice read! Good form!

Awesome report of the adventure, love it,,, keep them coming.

What lapse in judgement caused you to use those store bought gallon water jugs? I use prey stout juice bottles and they still break from time to time. Good report!!

Awesome write up! Thanks for sharing.

Yeah lesson learned that those bottles will never last. I stocked up on half gallon Gatorade bottles and they seem to be the best so far