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The True Cost of Vanlife

Original Post
emonie · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 0

Hello,,

As I write this post, I think back on the fading summer and remember how much climbing I was supposed to do. It has been 4.5 months since I arrived in the Salt Lake City area from my home state of Ohio. The great American west and its endless supply of climbing of all kinds was the goal for me and in the early spring of this year it became a reality. Girlfriend, myself, and as much gear/clothing/helmets/bikes/food and cooking shit went into a newly purchased and remodeled Chevy Astro and Utah was the destination.

The amount of people and equipment in this Chevy Astro meant that everything had its place. In particular, our 20lb propane tank sat under the two burner stove platform with just enough clearance to slip a finger under and crank it open or closed (cranked, 'cause we hadda live and sleep with the thing). One morning, when it came time to fire the systems up, boil water for coffee, get some oatmeal going, etc. i slipped my preferred finger into the narrow space to open up the propane tank's main valve, and *POP*!! Welcome to Utah, son.

If you are still with me, then perhaps you already know. The *POP* we've read about in magazines, heard in videos, and that has been subject of countless threads on climbing forums globally.

I did what research I felt I needed to do in my cramped abode on my phone, and decided rest would be the wisest approach, or rather, retreat. 4.5 months later (the present) I have done no climbing, and very few exercises to foster a recovery. Why? Because from what I can tell, the thing ain't right. I waited for signs to begin my recovery that never came. I believe I've completely ruptured my A3 pulley, a diagnosis I've settled on because of the 'bowstringing' created by the flexor tendon across the PIP joint as seen in the image below.



I hope if you've taken the time to read this post and you feel that you can offer any insight that you do so. I suppose I'll find some other body-destroying hobby if it's never going to allow me to climb the stuff I've always dreamed of, but damn will that be a blow. If anybody has any experience with pulley ruptures, A3 issues, surgeries, bowstringing, I would love to hear it. If anybody has had a wonderful experience with a doctor in the SLC area that specializes in hands, or even better, climber's hands, I would also love to know.

POLL: would you prefer to blow a pulley opening a propane tank or tugging at the loops on your rock shoes after tying in?

thanks,
ethan
ALuckyDuck · · Boulder, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 395

Ethan,

Sorry to hear about your injury. As a fellow van dweller I sympathize and empathize. But I can think of no better place to be with a pulley rupture than Utah. I actually just finished watching the climbing film Wide Boyz, in which Tom Randall reveals he only got into crack climbing because it was the only form of climbing he could do after sustaining a severe pulley injury. In the film, Tom and Pete head to Utah and climb the hardest off-width in the world. But you don't have to sell your van for 20 #6 cams, just head to Indian Creek or any of the splitter cliffs in the Moab area and have a go at some crack climbing. No pulleys necessary.

Unfortunately, I do not know of any specialists in the area, but I would go see a physical therapist and discuss treatment options. Good luck and hope you have a full recovery soon.

If this message convinces you to head down to the Moab area, send me a message and we can jump on the rope.

Cheers

Poll: I guess tugging at my shoes if I had to choose. The propane injury just sounds awkward ;)

Aleks Zebastian · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 175

Climbing friend,

I am sorry for your climbing fingering injury.

Your true cost life of van life living is dignity.

youtube.com/watch?v=3nhgfjr…

Mike Cara · · Hendersonville, NC · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 21
emonie wrote:i slipped my preferred finger into the narrow space
I think we've all been there. Sorry about your injury.
Ryan Hill · · Denver, CO · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 30

I needed some x-rays on my wrist while living in St. George, UT and went to see a hand specialist who ended up being a climber with a few first ascents in the area. Dr. Michael Anderson knew what was up with climbers and hand injuries, I'd suggest him for anyone looking to get a more specialized consideration of an injury.

drandersonortho.com/

Also van life in St. George is pretty sweet once it cools down a bit. Plus, Zion!

lucander · · Stone Ridge, NY · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 260

Avoid surgery if at all possible.

Get another hobby. I wrote a couple books, read a lot of books, and watched a few movies. After a month or so I could run and bike comfortably (bouncing irritated the hand and changing gears/braking was out of the question). After two months I took up lifting. After 6 months I was climbing again, and after 7 months I did some my hardest (by grade) redpoints.

Injuries like this one are psychologically weird because you look able-bodied and even feel like that sometimes, but in terms of climbing it's just not happening. Don't rush back and re-injure that healing tissue.

emonie · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 0

lucander,

did you sustain a complete rupture of the tissue?

basically what I'm wondering is: if there is bowstringing is there a chance that i have begun healing? by healing I mean back to climbing. day-to-day I have no real pain but sensations of the joint being 'off' are sort of ever present. some of what I've read indicates that tears will usually heal on their own, while full ruptures of the sleeve/pulley may not be able to regenerate beyond the boundaries of either end of the tear..

thanks yall

Clint Helander · · Anchorage, AK · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 612

I would suggest splinting/immobalizing it for the first few weeks. good luck

emonie · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 0

Clint, do you mean beginning with splinting now? I wish i had done it 5 months ago when it happened. Would you see any value in splinting at this point?

Clint Helander · · Anchorage, AK · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 612

i'm not a doctor. i thought the incident was recent. Splinting probably wouldn't do much good now.

emonie · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 0

no problem clint.

I've done plenty of reading on the subject through websites, other threads on MP. what makes me feel isolated from much of the literature on the subject is the time since the original injury and the (perceived) lack of any recovery thus far. I suppose my next step is to attempt to connect my insurance with a doctor that would have any clue about my situation. To those still listening: what would you do if you were me? surgery seems an unpopular choice but what proactive measures do I have left and for how long to I work the non-surgical angle before assuming surgery is my next best option IF i hope to climb beyond 5.8 again?

Joy likes trad · · Southern California · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 71

Slabs & cracks. Slab climbing is doable with a missing finger. so are many cracks. Really any climbing can be doen without the use of a single digit you just have to learn to relax the one that is injured. And yes I climbied through an A3 injury.

emonie · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 0

climbed through--and recovered? love to hear the details of the strain/tear/rupture and the duration of your recovery.

thanks

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65

Dr. Karen Heiden of Heiden-Davidson Orthopedics
heidendavidsonortho.com/kar…

Dr. Eric Vanderhooft
saltlakeorthopaedics.com/j-…

And the goto place in the valley:
intermountainhealthcare.org…

emonie · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 0

big ups marc. thank you

Joy likes trad · · Southern California · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 71
emonie wrote:climbed through--and recovered? love to hear the details of the strain/tear/rupture and the duration of your recovery. thanks
Not much to say really except that I became an expert at not using my middle left finger and also my pain tolerance is way higher than it used to be. It' no longer hurts but is deformed.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Injuries and Accidents
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