Martin M. wrote:Hy mattm, This review is partial, biased and it's not helpfull at all. It completely neglects the positive sides of Alpha Trad(shape, grip on the back) and misleads on the arguments for WCH. The truth is, WCH gates are the same as DMM's trad, not flatter, as it sais. It seems like Trad wants to slide out, because the post make it seem so... Everyone reading this "review" must know that it is made with a purpose to favorize WCH. - Wild Country Helium is actually made by DMM for Wild Country.
Totally agree with you.
First Sorry for my English, I'm French.
ALSO:
There is more room for a larger sling on Alpha trad. A larger sling will sit better in that more flat basket on the narrow or dogbone side of the DMM Alpha Trad.
The gate of the Alpha Trad is a little bit more vertical than the Helium. Also the nose is narrow back to front of the biner. Look the noses on the picture.
The nose part that it's outside the line of the gate is a lot bigger on Helium. Combine with the less vertical gate of the Helium it's more prone to back clipping. Alpha Trad nose have more chance to fit on chain than Helium. The pointed nose make it more easy grab a single sling when it's doubled. This is hard to explain because of my poor English. Sorry
Also if you put the biner on the side and slide it on the rock the gate of the Alpha Trad will be safe from the rock. The gate opposite of the nose of the Helium will touch the rock and will be prone to open on a fall scenario. Why the Helium gate will touch the rock because of the design of the biner and the gate is wider than Alpha Trad. This wider gate, opposite to the nose make retrieving sling under small load or tight clove hitch hard to retrieved by sliding it by the gate.
I feel both gate are equally smooth but Alpha Trad is a more constant smoothness. Helium is not. It's harder at the start when you open it. Half of the way is really soft and you can feel the difference. When the gate opening is not constante it feel less secure in hand make it more prone to drop it.
I like the wider back of the Helium make it more stable on hand but the grippy groove on alpha trad on the back and front under the gate did great job too.