Nov-Dec Southwest USA - Where to get someone addicted to climbing

Plan to be taking a trip around Nov-Dec timeframe through CA, AZ, NV, NM, etc. Looking for advice on places and specific climbs where I could take a brand new climber (ie nonclimber to whom I would like to introduce climbing). 3rd class / 4th class recommendations are also welcome if you think they are great quality. The new climber is fit, but hasn't really tried climbing much, so I think anything beyond 5.6 is probably not a good idea.

I will be taking ropes and a full trad rack, and I am quite familiar with setting up reasonable anchors as necessary. I am comfortable to "lead"/free-solo any climbs in this difficulty range though easy access to set up the rope wouldn't be a bad thing.

Thanks for any advice,
Bryan

Red Rocks probably has the highest concentration of overly easy routes in the western USA. I cant think of many other places that have several multipitch routes that are easier than 5.8 other than Tuolumne. They also have several quite easy single pitch routes, which is obviously more relative to your situation. Yosemite has some stuff too, but it's a big clusterfuck going to Yosemite with the whole camping situation, and it will probably be under snow in Dec.

I would suggest just taking him to a gym to learn there. Then once he learns basic stuff, he should be strong enough to climb slightly harder stuff (5.9 maybe) outdoors, which would increase your options.

Red Rocks has already been mentioned.

I'd also suggest Joshua Tree -- there's lots of climbing that is both easy to do, and easy to find with minimal approaches. (e.g. Beginner's One or Beginner's Two on The Blob near Hidden Valley campground -- 5.3, and a 5 minute or so approach across flat ground.)

The approaches at Red Rocks, especially for some of the sport crags with easy climbing, can be tricky -- working your way properly through a maze of twisty little canyons that all look alike.

For 3rd/4th I suggest Middle Palisade and for easy fifth class Mt.Emerson Southeast face.

summitpost.org/northeast-fa…

summitpost.org/southeast-fa…

gription wrote:For 3rd/4th I suggest Middle Palisade and for easy fifth class Mt.Emerson Southeast face. summitpost.org/northeast-fa… summitpost.org/southeast-fa…

In Nov-Dec?

Some of the above responses recommend multi-pitch, which I would definitely avoid with a new climber.

How about Joshua Tree for November or December, single-pitch climbing?

Marc801 wrote: In Nov-Dec?

with the right gear...if you were coming next week it would be better though.

gription wrote: with the right gear...if you were coming next week it would be better though.

I believe the OP was asking regarding a new rock climber and not seeking a winter mountaineering adventure.

Well most of the good 3rd and 4th stuff will be very wintery by the time you get here. Good luck on yor trip. Josh as I am sure many others will state is a great winter area and very easy to fall in love with.

Keep and eye on the weather.... sometimes nov-dec might be nice and sunny OR the snow and rain might be in the offering.

If its sunny.... Yosemite Valley, Shuteye, Fresno Dome, Dome Rock - the Needles and Courtright might be glorious.

Bishop and all the surrounding areas are prime. IMHO... if you want to learn how to Rock Climb the ORG can't be beat. There are some really fine 5.7 that go straight up and down.

Josh... lots of folks just love that place, go figure.

Guy Keesee wrote:Josh... lots of folks just love that place, go figure.

I climb in the areas you mentioned. I have not been to Josh since 2001, but I did fall in love with climbing in Josh 21 years ago.

Thanks for the advice all. Joshua Tree will definitely be a stop on the trip. Haven't been there myself yet, but I hope my friend won't be spooked by some of the awkward "descents" I see for some of the areas.

Other than that, I'll have to check the weather closely and see what else might be available along the way.

For warm winter one-pitch climbs in NM I'm going to recommend the basalt crags around Los Alamos/White Rock ... approaches are nil, rock is fabulous ... get in touch with the LA Mountaineers for specifics or to join in a group top-roping session ... walls are steep & hard but excellent ground for lead training ...

Bryan Liao wrote:Thanks for the advice all. Joshua Tree will definitely be a stop on the trip. Haven't been there myself yet, but I hope my friend won't be spooked by some of the awkward "descents" I see for some of the areas. Other than that, I'll have to check the weather closely and see what else might be available along the way.

You wont leave J Tree. And the descents are fine, the rock is grippy as all get out in most of the well traveled areas. Im surprised that only Frank has mentioned that if you have a brand new climber in tow, I'd definitely avoid multipitch for at least the first few days.

Bryan Liao wrote:Thanks for the advice all. Joshua Tree will definitely be a stop on the trip. Haven't been there myself yet, but I hope my friend won't be spooked by some of the awkward "descents" I see for some of the areas.

I hit a few scary descents in JTree. A couple possible solutions -- set up a rappel if you're also worried for yourself. If not, belay your newb down, then just down-climb yourself afterwards.