Advice for first time trad?
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I'm starting trad climbing this fall and I was hoping someone might have some suggestions. I've been top roping for around 3 years, sport for about 2, so I figured I'd like to get into trad now. Advice about gear, techniques, and just general tips would be greatly appreciated! |
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Db5504...place gear early and often. Your 1st piece should be multi-directional. Use slings to extend placements, liberally. When you're looking at a runout use the old Tony Yaniro practice of doubling up with two pieces of gear before the runout. Wear a helmet. Close the system...the leader and belayer tie in to the rope. Be safe out there. |
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Find a good mentor you can trust and just be stoked. Also I highly recommend doing as much reading as you can about traditional climbing |
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Thanks! And in regards to reading up, that's the reason I have a b+ in History class haha |
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Find someone you can follow a lot. |
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This... Jay Eggleston wrote:Find someone you can follow a lot. |
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Climb well below your limit. Practice placing gear at ground level. Weight it, pull it in opposite directions. |
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Follow a competent leader on a few dozen multipitch trad routes. Grade in unimportant. See how the gear works as a system, and get up close and personal with hundreds of passive and active placements of all kinds. |
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In addition to all of the above, aid climbing on a top rope belay helps get in mileage and experience with gear placements with instant feedback. |
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Any suggestions on a good rack (if possible in the $100-$150 range)? |
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Db5504 wrote:Any suggestions on a good rack (if possible in the $100-$150 range)?Hmmmmm. A set of nuts and a pink tricam i supposed. |
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Db5504 wrote:Any suggestions on a good rack (if possible in the $100-$150 range)?Don't buy a rack...yet. First put in some time to become a competent and reliable second on multipitch trad. When you are done with that apprenticeship you'll know what you want to buy as a rack. Finding a competent mentor to follow is the best idea, but how to you judge "competent?" Nowadays, I think a day or two with a certified guide is the best way to get started. |
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Benjamin Chapman wrote:Db5504...place gear early and often. Your 1st piece should be multi-directional. Use slings to extend placements, liberally. When you're looking at a runout use the old Tony Yaniro practice of doubling up with two pieces of gear before the runout. Wear a helmet. Close the system...the leader and belayer tie in to the rope. Be safe out there.Great advice. I would also add having a nonverbal communication system for when you are out of sight/hearing of your partner. For instance, three rope tugs for off belay and two for on belay. I also assemble the belay system before I pull up the rope, so my partner knows that they will be on belay within 15 seconds of the rope coming tight (with the accompanying rope tugs, of course). On multi pitch with a walk off, bring small approach shoes so you don't have to walk off in your climbing shoes, which to me seem three sizes too tight after your feet have swelled. I swear my toenails grow about 1/4 inch each multi pitch! Protect your second on traverses! They will thank you for it. |
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In all this following/cleaning you're going to be doing...to learn how to trad... |
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Use the money to buy chips and salsa or whatever post-climb refreshments preferred by folks you can follow for a season on multi-pitch. Everyone with your level of experience will gain WAY more in return with repeat climbs seconding. |
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Jeff McLeod wrote:Also... Remember, the onus of replacing the gear if it gets stuck is always on the follower, even if the mystery of who caused the stuckage is unclear. If you are cleaning, and you can't get something out, you bought it.I disagree that the onus is ALWAYS on the follower to pay for stuck gear. While many times it is a follower's fault for not retrieving gear, there are times when it is not the second's fault to be unable to remove gear: Cams can be impossible to remove if the leader got gripped and over cammed it, or if the leader failed to sling the cam and it walked into a flaring crack and fell out of reach. If the leader whipped on a stopper and it wedged tight, that little piece of metal just saved your life, so consider that cheap insurance. Climbing is a partnership. Both partners are responsible for the system moving smoothly. Communicate your expectations with a new partner before you climb. |
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Freedom of the Hills and John Long's climbing anchors book. Even if you find a mentor, it's good to a solid source for the fundamentals. |
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Db5504 |
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I've been leading trad for about 10 months. I still feel I have a lot to learn but I've picked up all sorts of useful stuff from this forum, and from my mentor, who has been and still is very supportive. There are routes I think I should be able to lead, that I will following instead because I'm unsure about availability of placements, quality of placements, and just generally getting in my head. To me, it's a very different mindset from clipping bolts, which I suspect is probably true for most people. I also did less following than is often recommended, and bought a rack pretty early on, starting with passive pro and then cams. |
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.... where do you live? |
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Couple of things not mentioned yet... |