Bolting in Zion Sandstone
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We are headed to Zion to climb a route that is not traveled often. Put up in the early 90's. I am planing on taking a bolting kit to beef up and or replace anchor bolts. Any body have any experience with Fixe 3/8 double wedge bolts in sandstone? I am not opposed to using baby angles as I have clipped lots of ones that seam bomber in sandstone.. Just seams like a stainless steal bolt is a better idea if the double wedge would would work.. And much easier to drill a single size hole then try and wallow out a 3/8 1/2 hole for an angle.. |
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I think drilled angles are not a good idea - if you are going to go to that kind of trouble, a glue in is a much better and longer lasting idea. |
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Thanks for the Info.. I would love to use glue in's but I don't have the time for them to dry.. I think I will take a bag of 1/2-4 fixe stainless powers bolts. |
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Just to be clear, Powers makes the sleeve bolts - not Fixe. Fixe redistributes them - are you talking about this bolt? fixehardware.com/shop/bolts… |
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Yes that's the bolt. |
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Do not use the double wedge. That thing is a gimmick IMO. Wedge bolts are supposed to be used only in hard rock, but Fixe added a second expansion cone to try to give it more purchase in soft rock. The problem is your still left with a bolt that uses a technology designed only for hard rock. Furthermore, the upper cone is only an inch or so from the surface of the rock, which is dangerously shallow to be applying a load in such soft rock. |
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I do ASCA replacements in Zion. I will give you glue and glue in bolts for this route. I have been using Climb tech wave bolts which use 45min cure glue. |
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crimper. different glue, different bolts. |
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Fair play. Just out of interest Rob, what do u think of red head A7 vs powers glue? |
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CrimperE6 wrote:Dont rap after 10mins! u might die.There are different types of glue ins that have different requirements, in the case of the wave bolts, they have an interference fit which makes it so that you can rap on them without any glue and they will still hold, so in this case, yeah, 10 minutes is plenty of time. |