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CO ice climbing season

Original Post
Nick Sweeney · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 969

I'm looking for some beta on the climbing season for ice in Colorado. I'll be traveling to Denver for business in early October and early December. One of my best friends/climbing partners just moved to the area and I'd like to capitalize on the free travel to do some climbing! Ice climbing is preferred, but I'm guessing that rock climbing may be more feasible for my October trip.

Thanks in advance for any info you have!

Nick Sweeney · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 969

Tim, thanks for the beta. Do you have any suggestions for mixed routes in RMNP that may be feasible? Looking for III WI4 M4 or easier.

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425
Tim G wrote:Be aware of the avalanche risks later in the season.
Early season too. It can slide even with grass sticking out. We can technically see year round avy danger here in CO. One of the guys that used to frequent MP got avy'd on Dreamweaver in RMNP in October.
Jonathan White · · highlands ranch, co · Joined Aug 2005 · Points: 105

Alexander Chimney is a good moderate mixed climb. All Mixed Up is another.

Rob Griz · · Frisco · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 2,151

I typically ice climb Lincoln Falls/10 Mile Canyon/Vail from Halloween to Mothers Day. Summit County has one of the longest ice seasons in the Lower 48. There is plenty of year-round dry tooling in East Vail as well. Enjoy!

Russ Keane · · Salt Lake · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 392

Is Colorado considered the best ice climbing region in the lower 48?

Highlander · · Ouray, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 256
Russ Keane wrote:Is Colorado considered the best ice climbing region in the lower 48?
WY & MT are pretty good, less crowded, short approaches, nice warm sunny weather, tons of ice; sounds like paradise.
Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425
Russ Keane wrote:Is Colorado considered the best ice climbing region in the lower 48?
If by "best" you mean most crowded, stepped out and hacked up...yes.

In all seriousness Front Range ice climbing IS crowded, and a general sh*tshow especially in regards to cragging.

There are great spots all over the state, but if I was to make a specific trip to climb, my next one would be as Highlander described. Montana looks divine.
Kevin Zagorda · · Glen Haven, Co · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 600

You want to see shitshow - try climbing in NY!

But - I only climb during the week in CO and seldom see anyone else.

Hyalite is spectacular, going to get up to Cody this winter too.

Mydans · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 70

I would agree with alexanders chimmney on longs to the notch as a good alpine route. Dreamweaver sometimes comes into condition in the fall but it is normally better in the spring. I would also check out the northeast face on notchtop, the hourglass couloir on arrowhead, and possible the dragontail couloir. keep in mind that all the RMNP routes vary widely in difficulty based on how much ice is there. When they are fat most of the above routes are pretty moderate but when they are thin they are much harder/scarier.

have fun

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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