Peter Pribik climbing onto the summit block of Outguard Spire with the deep void behind.

All Locations > California > High Sierra > 02 - The Sawtoo… > Little Slide Sp… > Outguard Spire > E Face Direct (5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b)

Peter Pribik climbing onto the summit block of Outguard Spire with the deep void behind.

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Riding the summit block of Outguard Spire, with The Incredible Hulk and The Turret behind. Pic: Peter Pribik

Pitch 3. Looking up at the first half of Pitch 3 from below the crux traverse. Due to rope drag, we set an intermediate belay above the fingercrack.

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Richard Shore

Sep 9, 2015

“Peter Pribik climbing onto the summit block of Outguard Spire with the deep void behind.”

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Riding the summit block of Outguard Spire, with The Incredible Hulk and The Turret behind. Pic: Peter Pribik

Peter Pribik climbing onto the summit block of Outguard Spire with the deep void behind.

Pitch 3. Looking up at the first half of Pitch 3 from below the crux traverse. Due to rope drag, we set an intermediate belay above the fingercrack.

Pitch 5. We belayed beneath this wide crack. We climbed a few moves up the wide crack, then moved right, around some loose blocks to a corner....

Pitch 4. Jeff nearing the top of the crux corner that starts off the pitch.

Pitch 3. Jeff on the crux traverse across the flaring seam. He got a good cam (0.5-0.75 size, offset is great) in about where he is in the photo.

Pitch 2. Looking up the finger crack on Pitch 2. There is a protection bolt about 20 feet up, but the bolt seems a bit unnecessary as the crack takes pretty decent gear throughout.

Peter Pribik following P4

Rappeling into the gully below the south face of Outguard.

Route Overlay, Pitches 1, 2, ...

Location

Splitters on P5

Pitch 3. The 5.8 crack above our intermediate belay. I led this half of the pitch. This was fun climbing, and feels 5.8 if you have thin hands.

Pitch 1. Here Jeff is just above the cruxy start moves and is beginning the easier leftward traverse on the ramp/crack system.

Jeff on the summit, from the belay just below the summit block. We climbed these cracks on the west side of the block (seemed ~5.7), but there might be alternatives ways to the top.

Pitch 1. Looking up at the second half of Pitch 1, which goes through the bulge and up a short corner above.

If you look closely at the photo, the tails of our rope (we had a 70m rope) are a good 10 feet off the ground. But if you swing left you can reach the ground further up the gully. So a 70m rope works fine for the rappels. But a 60m rope would be too short for both rappels.

Peter Pribik leading P1 of Outguard Spire's Direct East Face

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