Slap-slide vs. BUS method?
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Done both, and have heard good things about both, but do you have a preference, and if so, why? |
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BUS for sure. You spend 90% of your time in the brake position with (P)BUS. As opposed to like 40-50% of your time in the brake position with Slip-Slap-Slide. More time in the brake position means more control of your rope. |
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I won't climb with you if you use slap slide. |
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Exactly what I have been thinking, but I know some stubborn people |
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Depends on the situation and the device. |
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slap-slide for hip belay and munter hitch, pBUS for most all other devices. |
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Hands free on grigri while rolling a fatty is my preferred belay method. |
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Sam Keller wrote:Hands free on grigri while rolling a fatty is my preferred belay method.Me too. It helps me comprehend the uber complicated world of holding ropes below my waist. It's really some far out shit man. |
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I have no idea which one is which. I have 2 criteria:
Everything else falls into place if you can sort those two out. |
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As long as you're proficient, either one is good. |
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This is an ancient discussion topic. Here is an excerpt from my response from six years ago(!) at rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/fo… |
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Sam Keller wrote:Hands free on grigri while rolling a fatty is my preferred belay method.So unsafe, you should hold the rope with your foot on it while rolling. |
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Sam Keller wrote:Hands free on grigri while rolling a fatty is my preferred belay method.climbing friend killer, Would you pleaase be rolling your fat one prior to arrival at the climbing rocks, myah? And then you may smoke from your spliff while you would be holding it between your lips, leaving brake hand free to make proper utilization of the grigri. |
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Assuming we're talking TR-belay here, I will teach BUS, and far prefer my belayer do so. I want a belay where the rope spends a maximum amount of time in the brake position, and when teaching a belay, I emphasize that unless the belayer is actually moving the rope through the belay device, the brake end should be in brake position. |
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Can you translate this into english and then back into climber speak. I've been climbing for decades and no one I climb with uses these terms. |
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gription wrote:Can you translate this into english and then back into climber speak. I've been climbing for decades and no one I climb with uses these terms.BUS - brake-hand goes to brake position, other hand grabs brake strand underneath (farther from belay device than) brake hand, brake hand slides up brake strand towards belay device, other hand returns to rope above belay device to bring in more rope. Slap-slide - (I think) - after brake hand pulls out brake rope, it is brought up parallel to active strand, active hand grabs rope, brake hands slides towards belay device, brake hand takes brake strand to brake position. (Pinch-slide - brake hand goes to brake position, other hand slides down over tope of belay device & pinches brake strand against belay device while also around active strand, brake hand slides up brake strand towards belay device, other hand returns to active strand high.) Does that make more sense? |
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gription wrote:Can you translate this into english and then back into climber speak. I've been climbing for decades and no one I climb with uses these terms.I think I forgot to take notes that day too. |
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alpinejason wrote:I won't climb with you if you use slap slide.OK I learned this as never take your hand of the brake and maintain lock as often as possible. That said after googling this I won't climb with S,S,S folks at all. I prefer P,L,G,S (Pull Lock, Grab, Slide) but accept B,U,S folks and they are the most common around here. |
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brake hand never leaves the rope. |
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ok looked at more pics and I am a BUS hands down guy for TR. for lead I just unlock break and pull with non break then go back to break. |
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pinch and slide (i think this is BUS method?) for ATC style devices, slip slap slide for munter hitch. I think it is important to be able to belay both ways because, when using a munter hitch, slip slap slide is much more efficient and locks off the rope better. and while most people rarely use the munter, i find myself using it quite often, usually when i'm belay off my harness from the top or when I anticipate the possibility of a factor 2 fall. gription wrote:That said after googling this I won't climb with S,S,S folks at all.i think that's pretty close minded, and I have a few partners who have been invaluable to my experience and growth as a climber (people who have been climbing since the 70s) who use the S,S,S and have caught many of my whippers, including the scariest whip i've ever taken (a twenty footer on a not-so-well-placed blue alien). If you don't trust your belayer, just treat it like a free solo |