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please critique my tether

Original Post
Brady3 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 15

Out climbing one day I saw a couple with a different kind of tether than I had seen before. There was a single strand of rope that was run throw a couple holes on a metal plate and then the locker was clipped to a third hole (not sure what this piece of gear is called), then just a stopper knot in the end of the rope.

This got me thinking about having a length of rope (dynamic would be better in case you go above the anchor) that's tied to your harness and the just clove hitched to a locker. We do this all the time with the climbing rope for multi-pitch. To keep the tail out of the way you could just tie a double overhand around the strand going from your harness to the clove, it keeps the end from slipping through the clove (not that there is really a risk of that) and keeps it cleaner than having the end hanging down. When I rappel I like to extend my device and use a back-up (please skip the discussion of this being necessary or not) and having a point on the tether for clipping the device to would be nice, any reason an alpine butterfly wouldn't work for that? If there's fear of it weakening the rope the alpine butterfly could be taken out until getting ready to rappel.

In theory it will have the functionality and safety of a purcell prussik but with less bulk (assuming using same diameter rope, I know a lot of purcells are tied with 6mm but they do fail in FF1.5 fall. If you only want it to old body weight you could do this with 6mm as well, but I wouldn't recommend it).

I haven't actually set this up yet and more just find these things interesting to think about, it seems sound to me. If the consensus is that it's safe then it would give another option.

Gregger Man · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 1,759

Did it look like this:
storrick.cnc.net/VerticalDe…

Steve Sangdahl · · eldo sprngs, co · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 735

Seems like it's just another piece of gear to drag around and maybe misuse. What's wrong with using the rope and clove hitch in like we have for years. Keep it simple. Peace

Brady3 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 15

That is it Gregger Man, though they had the biner clipped to the plate rather than a loop at both ends of the rope.

Steve: This would be for when it isn't as useful to use the climbing rope directly, such as cleaning a route or for rappelling. Currently I just use a sling for this but some times it'd be nice to have something longer depending on where the bolts above a ledge.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

its fine ... that said theres no effing way im paying 50+ smackaroos for a lanyard

petzl.com/EN/Sport/Lanyards…

;)

Brady3 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 15

I saw that petzl one the other day too when looking for the kong device. And my thought for doing the clove hitch is it accomplishes the same thing with just a locker and rope.

But I could tie one and sell it to you for $40! (joking of course)

Gregger Man · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 1,759

If you are just looking for a longer connection and you happen to carry a cordelette (most of my partners don't) - this works and is quick/adjustable:

youtube.com/watch?v=vA1EzOY…

David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70
Brady3 wrote:This got me thinking about having a length of rope (dynamic would be better in case you go above the anchor) that's tied to your harness and the just clove hitched to a locker. ..................... When I rappel I like to extend my device and use a back-up (please skip the discussion of this being necessary or not) and having a point on the tether for clipping the device to would be nice, any reason an alpine butterfly wouldn't work for that?
1. not a clove hitch. use half a double fisherman's as shown in the image just below your original post.

2. not a butterfly, but a clove hitch, half way between the harness and the end.

Great thing about this is that you get a tether for zero money by using a length of old half rope.

All the best
Josh Kornish · · Whitefish, MT · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 800
Gregger Man wrote:Did it look like this: storrick.cnc.net/VerticalDe…
Check out Gregger Man's youtube channel. I've been following it for a while now and it is a great resource for technical knowledge on climbing systems.

Great videos!
Brady3 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 15

Gregger Man: the cordalette PAS seems very bulky and is not easily adjustable

David: I'm not sure the benefit of of using a "half double fisherman's" at the end and a clove hitch in the middle. That (and the picture Gregger Man posted) would give a fixed length with an adjustable mid point. I was looking for a fixed mid point (in reference to one end) and an adjustable length. This way if it is more comfortable to stand at an arm's length from the anchor then I can set my tether to a length where it is still taught and same as if I'm standing at the anchor. But when I go to rappel I still have a fixed point to clip my rappel device to while keeping it away from my backup that's tied to my belay loop.

brianszero · · Rogers, Ky · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 21

Gregger,
If you are going to use a cordelette as a tether, which is fine, just keep it simple.
1. Double, triple it or whatever, basket it through your tie ins on your harness, tie that overhand wherever you want for redundancy (required) and length for multiple clip in points.
2. Instead of basketing you can also just girth hitch that cord through your tie ins and same as above overhand wherever you want.

Both of these eliminate that big honking knot that is close to your harness tie in points which is prime real estate which should remain as uncluttered as possible. Remember you may have to tie back into the rope and your partner is going to double check you right? Make it easy to tie and be checked. Always remember to use knots for everything that is easily recognizable by your partner to check. Most people who are not familiar with certain knots will just assume that it is correct even if it may not..

percious · · Bear Creek, CO · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,190

I use a similar system, but instead of 2 carabiners, I tie one end into my harness following the belay loop, and on other end is simply a double fishermans. Attached to the stich plate is a locking carabiner.

This setup seems to be more popular at the sport climbing crags in Spain than here in the us. I do agree that it is superior to the PAS as it is not as bulky and is infinitely adjustable. (I was never a fan of the PAS) Also, the thick chord is much stronger than a sling. I like this system for multipitch trad as a way for the second to attach to the anchor before you clove them off.

Here I am anchored off a multipitch sea-cliff. mountainproject.com/v/10882… I agree that my anchor is missing redundancy but in this case the risk was low.

cheers.
-chris

Mathias · · Loveland, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 306

Seems like the simplest thing would be to just have a short length of rope that ties into the harness on one end, and has a figure eight and locker on the other. If cut so its length is arm's reach, you always have a tether. (I tend to wrap my PAS around the top of my harness and clip a gear loop on the other side, but whatever works.)

Next step (if arm's reach is too much for a particular belay) is to simply clove hitch in anywhere along the rope with a locker from your gear loop, when at belays. Infinitely adjustable and that locker can be left there for the whole day, or removed. The figure eight and locker at the end will ensure even if your clove hitch loosens up, that you won't have a loose end to run through the hitch (unlikely but possible), resulting in you becoming detached from the anchor. You could even clip it back onto the tether below the clove to stop it dangling and for even more safety.

When setting up a rap, have that second locker already clove hitched in place if it's a hanging station, otherwise you can do it later. Attach your rap device to the cloved locker (or clove your usual rap device biner if the tether in unweighted). The far end locker gets clipped to the belay loop once your rap is set up and tested (for redundancy and to keep the loose end out of the way).

Sounds simple enough that I might try this method myself. I have a hard time trusting all those loops on my PAS anyway.

Brady3 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 15

It sounds like Percious is using what I saw at the crag, which is really what I set up except I switched the plate with a clove hitch and tied the tail around the other strand to keep it out of the way.

What Mathias is saying is basically what I did, but again instead of a figure 8 I just did a double overhand around the other strand (it really sets up a noose, but the noose isn't holding any weight). And I used an alpine butterfly instead of the second clove hitch. The clove hitch would be easier to add in if I didn't want it to be a permanent part of the tether.

I did actually try my method, and like it thus far (only one day of climbing). The tail isn't swinging around while climbing, it just comes out longer than a shoulder length sling so I clip to a back gear loop instead of a front one. And it is less bulky than a purcell prussik as you only have two strands running to the carabiner instead of four.

Gregger Man · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 1,759
brianszero wrote:Gregger, If you are going to use a cordelette as a tether, which is fine, just keep it simple.....
If I'm tied into the rope I anchor myself using just the rope.
This method works well for me as a cow's tail for rappelling. The bulk of the knot doesn't bother me and a bowline-on-a-bight is strong and easy to untie after loading.
Girth hitching just two strands of 6mm cord through the tie in and using it as a PAS: that seems less than ideal to me.

Edit to add: using a short piece of rope dedicated as a tether can certainly work, but the potential usefulness of a cordelette is far greater to me.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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