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Expect No Mercy
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.9 from 14
votes
Routes in Westwind Buttress
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Check the Technique T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Eastwind Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Empty Plate T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A2- PG13 |
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Expect No Mercy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Fat Boy Slim T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Flippin' the Bird T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Grumpy Old Men T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Last of The Summer Wine T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sacrifice T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Separation Anxiety T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sit and Spin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Textbook Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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True Grit (Var.) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Warhorse T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Ed Webster and Jeff Butterfield, 1980 |
| Page Views: | 1,545 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | kalockwood on Dec 7, 2014 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
This route may have the most fitting name I have ever come across. This route is continuous and difficult.
P1: Start at the base of the Standard Thumb route near the chimney. Belay here or scramble up into the gulley above the chimney. The first crack leads up and left directly above the chimney. There are two crack systems from here, take the cleaner, right one. Climb up some broken rock out of the gulley into an awesome handcrack. Follow the crack up to a two-bolt anchor next to some bushes You will be at the base of the dihedral. 5.7+
P2: Follow the dihedral, it cleans up the higher you go. Optional belay at a single bolt halfway up the dihedral near a bush. 5.10
P3: Continue up the dihedral through the bombay chimney. Exit above the chimney onto a ledge with two bolts, some old-ish slings, and a couple leaver-biners. It is possible to link P2 and P3 with a 60 m rope.
Descent: Double rope rappel from the top of P3 will put you back in the gulley above the chimney. Use the optional rap station here in the gulley or downclimb back to the base. There is another optional rappel below the gulley, above and right (climbers right) of the chimney to get down the slabs.
A cool story from bsmoot about the route:
In the early 80s Les Ellison was leading the final pitch of Expect No Mercy 5.10d, a continuous three-pitch line on the West Wind Buttress (LCC) with Steve Carruthers. The third pitch is an awkward-leaning wide crack. Les decided to go all out by swinging into a layback instead of jamming. Knowing he likely had to run it out 25 feet or more to the top, he committed to the barn-door layback. Inching higher and higher above his last piece, he was unable to find a possible rest or foot hold to place protection. The edge of the crack was slightly rounded, which only added to the difficulty. With dwindling strength he struggled to an elusive "thank-God" hold. One move shy, his foot popped, causing him to plunge nearly sixty feet. The cart-wheeling, out-of-control fall landed him even with the belay. Steve, who was using a hip-belay, was badly burned on his hip and brake hand, but he held on! Les suffered a head laceration that would eventually require 10 stitches. Gathering his wits, Les successfully re-led the pitch, this time jamming the crack.
P1: Start at the base of the Standard Thumb route near the chimney. Belay here or scramble up into the gulley above the chimney. The first crack leads up and left directly above the chimney. There are two crack systems from here, take the cleaner, right one. Climb up some broken rock out of the gulley into an awesome handcrack. Follow the crack up to a two-bolt anchor next to some bushes You will be at the base of the dihedral. 5.7+
P2: Follow the dihedral, it cleans up the higher you go. Optional belay at a single bolt halfway up the dihedral near a bush. 5.10
P3: Continue up the dihedral through the bombay chimney. Exit above the chimney onto a ledge with two bolts, some old-ish slings, and a couple leaver-biners. It is possible to link P2 and P3 with a 60 m rope.
Descent: Double rope rappel from the top of P3 will put you back in the gulley above the chimney. Use the optional rap station here in the gulley or downclimb back to the base. There is another optional rappel below the gulley, above and right (climbers right) of the chimney to get down the slabs.
A cool story from bsmoot about the route:
In the early 80s Les Ellison was leading the final pitch of Expect No Mercy 5.10d, a continuous three-pitch line on the West Wind Buttress (LCC) with Steve Carruthers. The third pitch is an awkward-leaning wide crack. Les decided to go all out by swinging into a layback instead of jamming. Knowing he likely had to run it out 25 feet or more to the top, he committed to the barn-door layback. Inching higher and higher above his last piece, he was unable to find a possible rest or foot hold to place protection. The edge of the crack was slightly rounded, which only added to the difficulty. With dwindling strength he struggled to an elusive "thank-God" hold. One move shy, his foot popped, causing him to plunge nearly sixty feet. The cart-wheeling, out-of-control fall landed him even with the belay. Steve, who was using a hip-belay, was badly burned on his hip and brake hand, but he held on! Les suffered a head laceration that would eventually require 10 stitches. Gathering his wits, Les successfully re-led the pitch, this time jamming the crack.
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