High Noon and Hour Passed
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British R
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | unknown FA. RP: October, 2014 |
Page Views: | 1,192 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Abel Jones on Sep 7, 2015 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This begins from the nice rock perch below the tombstone formation on the left side of The Sentinel.
Pitch 1. 5.9R, 20 feet. Do a boulder problem with micro-gear to gain the nice belay ledge below the obvious corner with splitter crack running parallel to it. This pitch could land you in the hurt, but some creative small gear might hold you off the ledge and a piece of medium-sized gear for the belayer will keep both of you from tumbling off the perch.
Pitch 2. 5.11-, 80 feet. Climb the beautiful corner crack occasionally using the splitter out to your left. Turn the chossy looking roof with some large gear, then tackle a thin, 10+ section of stemming. Head toward an obvious white spot for the belay if continuing up the more direct left variation route. Climb straight up, and use a directional to move right on a ledge to belay for the glorious splitter way up and right variation.
Left variation:
Pitch 3. 5.10+, 50 feet. Head straight up and left from the white stain into a very nice, thin splitter that goes from fingers to hands. Turn this onto a very nice belay ledge.
Pitch 4. 5.10-, 50 feet. Head off the ledge up an overhanging, flared, chimney hand/fist crack that is actually much cleaner climbing than it looks. Top out the tombstone.
Right variation:
Pitch 3. 5.11-, 100 feet. From the belay ledge up and right of pitch 2..., surf straight right on an amazing flake, then bust up a technical, thin seam to the base of the glorious splitter through the roof. Climb amazing thin hands through the roof and up a widening hands/fists crack to topout of the tombstone formation.
Descent:
Two raps from healthy pines with rappel slings take you down the gully to the north of the formation. A 60m rope is sufficient.
Pitch 1. 5.9R, 20 feet. Do a boulder problem with micro-gear to gain the nice belay ledge below the obvious corner with splitter crack running parallel to it. This pitch could land you in the hurt, but some creative small gear might hold you off the ledge and a piece of medium-sized gear for the belayer will keep both of you from tumbling off the perch.
Pitch 2. 5.11-, 80 feet. Climb the beautiful corner crack occasionally using the splitter out to your left. Turn the chossy looking roof with some large gear, then tackle a thin, 10+ section of stemming. Head toward an obvious white spot for the belay if continuing up the more direct left variation route. Climb straight up, and use a directional to move right on a ledge to belay for the glorious splitter way up and right variation.
Left variation:
Pitch 3. 5.10+, 50 feet. Head straight up and left from the white stain into a very nice, thin splitter that goes from fingers to hands. Turn this onto a very nice belay ledge.
Pitch 4. 5.10-, 50 feet. Head off the ledge up an overhanging, flared, chimney hand/fist crack that is actually much cleaner climbing than it looks. Top out the tombstone.
Right variation:
Pitch 3. 5.11-, 100 feet. From the belay ledge up and right of pitch 2..., surf straight right on an amazing flake, then bust up a technical, thin seam to the base of the glorious splitter through the roof. Climb amazing thin hands through the roof and up a widening hands/fists crack to topout of the tombstone formation.
Descent:
Two raps from healthy pines with rappel slings take you down the gully to the north of the formation. A 60m rope is sufficient.
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