Type: Trad, 2000 ft (606 m)
FA: Robert Clarke & Alexander Ralph -1850
Page Views: 61,812 total · 310/month
Shared By: Rafiki on Nov 20, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

On a summer day in 1850, two workers from the McIntyre Iron Company (Now the Upper Works trailhead) set out to stand on top of the unclimbed Mt. Colden, an Adirondack High Peak named after an investor of the Iron Works. Since no trail existed, the pair started up the only weakness in the Mountain, a large dike on the west side that spilled into Avalanche Lake. They followed the dike up the mountain until the walls disappeared. They soon found themselves ascending an exposed slide into the unknown. A few hundred feet of scrambling lead to the summit. Later that night, the pair celebrated their first ascent by killing a deer and cooking it over a fire.

Relive their adventure by climbing the original (and still the best) route up the mountain. I wouldn't recommend cooking a deer over a fire afterwards though, I think the rangers would be pissed.

The route climbs the obvious dike over easy 3rd-4th class rock. The crux is a 30ft rock staircase next to a waterfall. As you climb higher in the dike, the walls will shrink until it's possible to climb out right onto the slide. It is VERY important not to exit the dike at the first chance. The slide here is very steep with no gear. A few parties have made this mistake having no technical rock experience or clean underwear and needed to be rescued. Stay in the dike until the 2nd or 3rd exit. If you stay in the dike too long, you'll find yourself in a nasty bushwhack to traverse right onto the slide. You know you've exited at the right point if you traverse onto the slide right and see a slab dihedral. Follow the easy, exposed slide to the top.

Here is an excellent trip report containing photos and topos..

http://alavigne.net/newHomePage/Outdoors/TripReports/ColdenTrapDike2003/index.jsp

Location Suggest change

The route is easy to locate, it's the huge dike in the side of the mountain, east side of Avalanche Lake.

Protection Suggest change

I've heard of some people belaying for the waterfall section, but it's really not necessary. It's pretty much a rock staircase with huge hands and feet. Just don't fall.

You might want to avoid the route after heavy rainfall or in the spring. If there's a lot of water coming down, think twice. The two times I've done it, the water has only been a trickle.

A Warning Suggest change

It should be noted that this is not a hiking route, and should be considered a serious undertaking for the non-climber or even beginner rock climber. There have been many rescues in the dike, many of which involve helicopter and rescue teams. A seasoned climber needs only approach shoes (with sticky rubber), but if in doubt, bring climbing shoes, rope, and rack (although gear opportunities are few). There are sections in the dike where a slip or fall would be fatal. And on the upper [new] slide, there is little to stop a tumbling climber (no ledges or tree islands). Yes, it's easy, so easy that you might let your guard down...but if you slip or fall, you could get seriously injured. Oh yeah, and going down (e.g., bailing because it's harder than you thought) is way harder than going up.

Photos

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