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Best grade IV & V 5.12s in North America?

Kevin Kent · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 1,526

A few that come to my mind:
Moab: Pale Fire (12b), Infrared (12--?), Excommunication (13a)
Sedona: Southern Revival (12), Into the Wild (12a)The Great Dihedral (11+++++).
Mexico: Logical Progression (12d/13a)

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
Dylan Cousins wrote:Here's the product of a rainy day in the Chief parking lot in Squamish - the best place to talk about .12 climbs in North America :) This is more like a list of great long routes rather than purely .12s. I think the theme of the discussion was "Road to Freerider". Always adding more... Probably need to add more of the West Coast stuff. Have fun!
Now that's a list!
20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346
Kevin Kent wrote: Mexico: Logical Progression (12d/13a)
That route looks really cool. An El Caps worth of sport climbing, hua. It seems like finding a partner for a route like that would be particularly difficult though unless you lived in San Diego.
eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525

dare I mention Southern Belle..

Wally Fox · · Bend, OR · Joined May 2010 · Points: 196

Palo! I'm down!

Jon Clark · · Planet Earth · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 1,153
20 kN wrote: Sent? Shit no. I fell several times on both routes. I'm not that good. But I am also not the type to bring a ledge up on a route and try to work all the pitches until I send.
Atleast you were honest the second time around.
Kevin Kent · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 1,526
20 kN wrote: That route looks really cool. An El Caps worth of sport climbing, hua. It seems like finding a partner for a route like that would be particularly difficult though unless you lived in San Diego.
It's a lot closer to Phoenix/Tucson/El Paso than San Diego.
Tim Kuss · · Durango, CO · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 198

The Free Nose in the Black Canyon. It's badass. Nothing quite compares.

Pnelson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 635
Jon Clark wrote: Atleast you were honest the second time around.
Yeah. Just fyi, usually when someone says "completed" or "did," it means that they sent. Especially if they are dropping numbers and grades.
Jeff G · · Colorado · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,098
eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525
JaminT Rossetter · · Gloucester, MA · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 0

Golden Pillar, Grand Teton.

Ethan clarke · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 5

This isn't a post about what routes he's climbed clean it's about best 5.12 bigwalls in north america. Do you really care if he fell on a few pitches. Can you even redpoint at this level anyway. Stop splitting hairs over the valdity of his "completion" of these routes.

Eliot Augusto · · Lafayette, CO · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 60
Jeremy Aslaksen wrote: CLASSIC. So you're really looking for 5.12 aid climbs eh?
I didn't know aid was rated via the YDS. I thought it went A0-A5. Today I learned...
Scott Bennett · · Western North America · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 1,265

Velvet Tongue (12d), on the Black Velvet wall in Red Rock Canyon. Finishing with Texas Hold 'Em and Lone Star to the top of the peak makes it Grade IV for sure.

I second Let It Burn (12a), on Colchuck Balanced Rock in the Enchantments (WA).

If you're in the area, definitely also check out Dragons of Eden (12b), on neighboring Dragontail Peak. cascadeclimbers.com/forum/u…

Trad Princess · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,175

What's worse? Grade dropping, or name dropping?

I'll have to ask my friend tommy what he thinks.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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