Going to Moab and looking for advice

I am going to Moab on a mountain biking vacation with my girlfriend in October. Since we are out there we would like to do some climbing, however she only wants to do top rope. We would probably only climb one or maybe two days.

Does anyone have suggestions on where we should go? I plan to bring minimal gear so just a rope and quick draws as we are taking a plane. So I would be looking for completely bolted routes. I ordered a Moab Climbing guide from Amazon but some direction as to where to start looking would be greatly appreciated.

Also routes easier than a 5.8 would be appreciated by her.

I would prefer to bring my own gear and go on my own schedule rather than paying for a guide.

Thanks

bring a single rack and do stolen chimney

There are a bunch of bolted routes on Wall Street on Potash Road

Rob,

Check out Schoolroom #2 area on Potash Road aka Wall Street. Not all guidebooks will call it Schoolroom though. Route names include Holy Moly, Practical Religion, Yogini, Neopolitan, Slab Route. All 5.7 and under protected by bolts. Be aware that the bolts may not be as closely spaced as what you are used to.

Ice Cream Parlor has lots of easy to moderate bolted routes. Wall Street has some good routes but you will be belaying right next to the road. Either one is pretty crowded most days.

Moab is a great place. Have fun.

mountainproject.com/v/ice-c…

Rob Warden, Space Lizard wrote:bring a single rack and do stolen chimney

Ignore this "advice".

From the OP:

""""""""""""""
...however she only wants to do top rope.

...I would be looking for completely bolted routes.

Also routes easier than a 5.8 would be appreciated by her.
""""""""""""""

how may routes are like stolen chimney? shoot the moon.

5.8 and under, bolted only, toprope?

For Moab your best bet is to spend an extra day mountain biking or hiking Delicate Arch if your butt needs a break from the bike seat.

Check out Looking Glass Rock. Its not quite what she is looking for, but the climbing is easy and it feels really adventurous without being hard or scary. I think its 3 pitches, 5.6ish, bolted, and there is a really cool rappel off it.

Actually I just looked, its 5.5 PG 13.. If you're comfortable with leading it she can just cruise up behind you.

It looks like there are only 4 or 5 routes easy enough that have enough bolts.

Thanks for the help. We will probably spend a day climbing the same couple routes anyways.

The easier the better for her. She has only been outside a couple times and she is still working on getting comfortable with it.

Rob62390 wrote:The easier the better for her. She has only been outside a couple times and she is still working on getting comfortable with it.

Looking Glass is a fun little adventure. Watch out for snakes at the start, though

As already mentioned The Schoolrooms on Potash Rd. as well as a couple of routes at The Kentucky Fried Chicken crag in mountains near by. It is in Karl's new guide book I believe, High On Moab. Otherwise you'll need to lead some easy sport routes at Ice Cream Parlor, The Cinema or Upper Brumley Canyon which are also in the guide book. Be a hit and take her to The Desert Bistro for fine dinning and ask for the chef to sign your guide book, which is Karl himself.

KatyKelly wrote:Check out Looking Glass Rock. Its not quite what she is looking for, but the climbing is easy and it feels really adventurous without being hard or scary. I think its 3 pitches, 5.6ish, bolted, and there is a really cool rappel off it. Actually I just looked, its 5.5 PG 13.. If you're comfortable with leading it she can just cruise up behind you.

I think Wilson's Arch is a little easier and less intimidating. The start of the rap off Looking Glass is pretty exposed iirc.
Both worth doing.

roadtripryan.com/go/t/utah/…

roadtripryan.com/go/t/utah/…

Elephant Butte might be a better choice all around. Very moderate climbing, a little easy canyoneering, some raps, and a cool summit- the highest point in Arches I think.

roadtripryan.com/go/t/utah/…

There are plenty of other topos for these routes, I just happen to use Road Trip Ryan farily often.

You could consider Granary Canyon too. Bit of a slog out though unless you have a shuttle and a 300 foot rope.

You have to try some lines at Wall Street (aka, Potash Road, UT-279). Some of the lines are outstanding. It's not as spectacular at Indian Creek, but as an intro to desert crack climbing, it can't be beat. There are some sport climbs, too. Try Nervous in Suburbia.

Yes, you belay along the road. Someone posted that as if it's a bad thing. It is not. ZERO approach time!

If it's toprope, why is your GF limiting herself to 5.8?

Best 5.8 on Wall St. is Sybernetics, or 30 seconds Over Potash.

Things to know about Wall St...
1. Park only in marked pullouts. DO NOT PARK WITH YOUR WHEELS ON OR OVER THE WHITE LINE!! There is truck traffic to the potash mine.

2. Don't stand in the middle of the road to take photos, belay, or gawk. There is truck traffic, and car traffic, and bike traffic. Don't be a noob! Be friendly. Wave at drivers! Let's them know that climbers are people, not crazed idiots. (Fool 'em!!)

3. There are some friendly folks, who are happy to share a rope/belay. Note this, however: It is also common to toprope through chains at Wall St. You may see some folks taping their rope end-to-end to someone else's rope to pull through the chains, and allow them to TR routes on their own rope. (Great way to try some harder routes without having to lead 5.11, or put wear on a stranger's rope!) However,some of the chains/anchor rings may be of suspicious quality and/or worn. So ASK if they checked the rings for wear before you commit yourself to an unknown anchor. Bring some webbing, quick links, cheap biners, and a knife to replace worn slings. Most anchors now are chains, with quick links, since nylon wears quickly in the desert sun. If multiple folks will be TR-ing the same line, put some slings on the anchor and TR from your own biners.

Also, there are some sketchy Coloradans, and a few BYU students, down in Moab, who are stoned and/or have very little belaying skill and experience. Bum a belay at your own risk. And don't let them distract your GF when she is belaying YOU.

4. Wall Street gets morning sun (nice for cool October early morning starts), but midday is often hot. Afternoon is awesome shade on Wall St. So, get a quick morning pump, go for a ride, then relax in a shady tent and have a shag, and then head over to Wall Street again in the PM. You're welcome.

5. Wall Street rock is a little softer than Indian Creek, since it is Navajo sandstone, vs Wingate at the Creek. It is friedlier to your hands, but if you or your gf are not skilled crack climbers, you will want some tape for your hands. Look around on the google webs, there is probably a video of how to do this! A good set of tape gloves can last a SEASON or more. Make a pair for you and her before you go, so you don't waste 2 rolls of tape and an hour doing this at Wall St.

6. Flakes of Wrath is the best 5.9 in the universe. This is only my opinion, slightly biased since it was my first desert climb, when I bummed a belay while on a MTB trip to Moab. Within a year, I sold my bike to buy a climbing rack. So, beware: Desert Crack climbing is addictive. You may find yourself living in a van, down by the river, living the dream.

"Yes, you belay along the road. Someone posted that as if it's a bad thing. It is not. ZERO approach time!"

Not intended as a negative or a positive -just something to be aware of. I know some people that don't like it and prefer a more "wilderness" setting but lots of people climb there and don't mind. Personal preference.

Yeah that's a romantic version of Potash if I ever heard one. Definitely need to spread your wings a bit. If you like Potash you should go to Red Rocks. I think Sir Edmund Hillary said it best-why Climb Potash? "Because it's there!"