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Yosemite First Timer - Looking for a good easy multipitch to celebrate my 30th birthday
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A lot of these suggetions IMO are crowded,greasy and not really that good. The shorter days may not be in your favor either. |
Ryan Maitland wrote: Good question - I've led mid 10's sport and up to 5.8 on gear outdoors. I project 11's on the gym. I anticipate leading all pitches unless anyone has any good/safe options for giving my girlfriend a shot at the sharp end! Thanks a bunch for the beta on Nutcracker - I may steer away from that if I don't feel confident after climbing the Grack. I looked at Commitment but backed off as I'm looking for super easy, fun climbing to be sure we're both super stoked and comfortable. It's funny you mention it because I've been secretly trying to find a Bridwell route to get on while we're there. Sounds like this could be the ticket. Keep the feedback coming!Hey Ryan, The Valley is really a Mecca of climbing. As you know the history of the entire sport in the US exploded there. It can be really easy to get excited and think I am going to climb like our heroes before me. My one piece of advise: Check your ego before you enter the park. Not sure where you experience is but my only climbing trip down to the valley was so much fun because I didnt bight off more than I could chew. I came in the best climbing shape I ever been, had lots of miles climbing granite in my backyard, and was ready to take on what came. Having said that I still was worked and pushed myself to climb some of my hardest routes to this date at Yosemite. I am not a crusher. My hardest trad routes have been 5.9+. I can only sometimes onsite 5.8 trad. Go try something like the Grack then reevaluate. Then try another 5.6 or 5.7 route, then reevaluate. You will have so much more fun this way then just jumping head first into something over your head. If your limit is 5.8 then Nutcracker is going to be VERY hard. Can you make it? Sure. But if you fall in the wrong spot (esp the crux) ankle breaker no question. Still a fantastic route. Bishops Terrace is much safer route. I also think its important to point out if you've never climbed granite before its a whole new game - slab, crack, offwidth are much more common then say a place like Red Rocks that has a lot more face climbing/features. Your gym grade really doesnt mean much in Yosemite IMO. Ive seen 5.12 indoor climber flounder all over the 5.6-5.8 walls in LCC. IMO I would not recommend going up any of these routes with 6 people. I would only recommend single pitch top rope. Do that then sneak off with your woman and climb the Grack in the evening, Bishops the next, and top off with Nutcracker. Im not trying to discourage you from climbing this just has some red flags come up in your post (6 people only one competent leader, 5.10 sport you loose your head, stoke level of GF with a route like Snake Dike). Like I said I think you can have a blast but look at route you are excited at and its rating and dialing back 1 or 2 grades to see where your skills truly lie will only enhance your trip. Have a great trip. Sounds like it will be a lot of fun. Edit: I just cant tell if that group of 6 is actually climbing with you or just your GF. "Most of the group aren't climber" - are they climbing though? |
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RE: Nutcracker, maybe I'm being overly cautious cause it sucks to see someone get hurt, but IMO its a 5.8 route for a 5.10a leader. |
Fat Dad wrote: This is just spectacularly bad advice. Given that the OP doesn't appear to have done a lot of trad and his girlfried even far less (or any at all), what rationale is there for advocating they that essentially solo the upper dike pitches? Given that the only pro is more or less at the belays, you're looking at the possibility of two relatively inexperienced climbers simul-soloing 5th class, roped together, several hundred feet above the deck. How is this a good suggestion?Hi Fat Dad, I'll humor you. His question was regarding how long it would take to do SD. My first sentence was, "Snake Dike entirely depends on how fast you hike, how many parties (if any) are in front of you, and whether you and your GF are comfortable simuling." As I mentioned before, SD is basically a controlled free solo regardless of the style you climb it. Obviously the "controlled free solo" bit wouldn't apply to the follower if pitching traditionally, but if he and his GF can onsight lead 5.8 (as he states), are comfortable simuling (that's for them to decide; not us), and feels the climb is within their comfort zone (as he states), then they'll be fine. Regarding the trad part, they don't need much trad experience upon gaining the dike as there's 1-2 very easy gear placements for the remainder of the climb. The dike portion isn't rocket science and the bolts are conspicuous. If they simul, there will always be at least 1, if not 2 bolts between them until the last pitch (all 4th and easy 5th) in which there would be a bomber .5 and/or .75. You might not recall the pro from your previous solo ascent, but I do from climbing this not too long ago. Either way, Ryan seems happy with my response and is leaning towards Cathedral Peak. I'll let him continue to make his own birthday decision. |
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RE: snake dike, believe it or not, you actually can go off route. that could be a cluster F (and downright scary) even when you are not simuling. |
EJoe wrote: If you follow this method, you could probably go from base to visor in 2 hours (or less), including the "slab for days" section. As far as the approach, you can also do that in 2-ish hours with the Watkins/Liberty Cap approach. This is assuming you hike fast and don't make the obligatory tourist/photo stops along the mist trail.To the OP, if this is your first time with SD and the Watkins approach and you're thinking of this ^ timing wise...bring your headlamp. |
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FWIW, if you're willing to do the drive to Tuolumne, there's a bunch of easier (and well protected) multi-pitch lines to do up there that may prove to be better options. (And give you a chance to see another awesome part of the park.) |
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For a fun multi-pitch with the girl friend, Tenaya Peak? |
