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Yosemite First Timer - Looking for a good easy multipitch to celebrate my 30th birthday

Original Post
Ryan Maitland · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 10

As the title says, I have a group of 6 or so heading to the valley the first weekend in October. We have a campsite at Crane Flats but we intend to get in line for camp 4 when we arrive early on Friday (like 4am) - fingers crossed there.

Most of the group aren't climbers, but my girlfriend and I definitely are. She's generally a dedicated follower but wants to transition into leading outdoors - for reference she has led indoors up to overhung 5.8, and followed all the way up into the 11's (with some TR falls). I lead onsight outdoors up to 5.9 and start losing my lead head in the 10's although I have sent a few. Can follow up into 11's but not generally with anything reminscent of good style - i project this grade in the gym.

We're there Fri (early - like 4a) through Monday (flying out of SFO that afternoon), so have half a day Frday after accounting for camp setup and what not and two solid days Saturday and Sunday. Maybe Monday morning we can run up something single pitch before heading out, or even just play on some boulders while breaking camp.

Here's my rough plan - would love any input anyone may have:

Friday AM - camp setup and get our bearings
Friday PM - Glacier Point Apron (The Grack, maybe Harry Daley)

Saturday AM - Manure Pile Buttress (After 6, Nutcracker)
Saturday PM - MPB continued

Sunday AM - my birthday! I'm thinking Snake Dike, as it's a huge classic that would end on top of half dome. Can't really beat that for a birthday gift! Would also allow us to meet our friends at the top that will hike the cables, which is a big bonus too.
Sunday PM - SD continued

My issue is with Sunday and Snake Dike. The climbing is definitely well within our comfort zone, but the 4hr apprach, 8 hour climb, 4 hour descent is a big day for us. I'm more concerned about the stoke level of my girlfriend, although 16 hours on the go will certainly test me as well. Would something a little easier to get to/from like SE Buttress of Cathedral be a better option? That's in the meadows so I'm just not sure if the weather/access there in October is good for that route.

Also, tourist/climber clusterf@#% level is something I'm not familiar with - if anyone has beta on what days/areas are jammed in this timeframe I'd love to hear it.

Any suggestions, comments, criticisms, beta or whatever are all expected and welcomed. Also, if anyone else is in the valley that weekend it would be cool to say hello, have a beer around a campfire and geek out on climbing.

Thanks!!

Ryan

Steven Groetken · · Durango, CO · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 390

If you want something super easy, but super amazing, check out sunny side bench. It finishes at the top of lower yosemite falls. There's amazing pools to swim in, but they will probably be cold in October. . Bring two ropes and you can rappel down right next to the falls. You will also be a celebrity when you get to the bottom, so do with that what you will.

climbing coastie · · Wasilla, AK · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 95

I’m really not trying to sound like a complete jerk, but the first thing I thought of when you said a party of 6 is "hope I don't run into them". Unless you and your GF are fairly proficient leaders and you climb on doubles/twins a group of six will mostly be a complete shit show. I know that you want to climb as a group, but it may be best to split into two parties of three and climb different routes. There are many areas that will allow you to do this in fairly close proximity to each other while not ruining a classic for others. (Five Open Books area for one)

With stating the level of the other four as “not really climbers” I wouldn’t take more than one of them up a multi at a time. Are they competent at rappelling? If not, there goes everything on GP Apron or any other climb without a walk off. Unless you and you GF split from the group, I’d say TRing at Swan Slab would be a good place to spend some time.

Sorry for the negative comments, but it really bothers me to see people not take others into consideration before heading up something. There are many routes around that you could choose and not have to worry about holding up others.

As for the tourists, depending on what weekend it is in October (later the better) you probably won’t have to worry too much about them. The busiest time is coming to an end this next week. On the other hand the 7 day restriction on C4 will be lifted by then and people can stay for longer periods. This may be a problem with getting sites. Not sure if you have ever been there, but all six of you may be in separate sites at C4. It is on an individual basis, not a group. You may get lucky and get a Upper/Lower Pines campground though. This would actually be cheaper also for a group that size.

Ryan Maitland · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 10
climbing coastie wrote:I’m really not trying to sound like a complete jerk, but the first thing I thought of when you said a party of 6 is "hope I don't run into them". Unless you and your GF are fairly proficient leaders and you climb on doubles/twins a group of six will mostly be a complete shit show. I know that you want to climb as a group, but it may be best to split into two parties of three and climb different routes. There are many areas that will allow you to do this in fairly close proximity to each other while not ruining a classic for others. (Five Open Books area for one) With stating the level of the other four as “not really climbers” I wouldn’t take more than one of them up a multi at a time. Are they competent at rappelling? If not, there goes everything on GP Apron or any other climb without a walk off. Unless you and you GF split from the group, I’d say TRing at Swan Slab would be a good place to spend some time. Sorry for the negative comments, but it really bothers me to see people not take others into consideration before heading up something. There are many routes around that you could choose and not have to worry about holding up others. As for the tourists, depending on what weekend it is in October (later the better) you probably won’t have to worry too much about them. The busiest time is coming to an end this next week. On the other hand the 7 day restriction on C4 will be lifted by then and people can stay for longer periods. This may be a problem with getting sites. Not sure if you have ever been there, but all six of you may be in separate sites at C4. It is on an individual basis, not a group. You may get lucky and get a Upper/Lower Pines campground though. This would actually be cheaper also for a group that size.
Thanks for the comments - and no worries about the criticism.

I should've clarified - it will only be my girlfriend and I climbing. The other 4 will be doing whatever it is that tourists do in Yosemite.

They will meet us on top of Half Dome if we do decide to do Snake Dike, though. They will hike the cables while we climb.
Ryan Maitland · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 10
Steven Groetken wrote:If you want something super easy, but super amazing, check out sunny side bench. It finishes at the top of lower yosemite falls. There's amazing pools to swim in, but they will probably be cold in October. . Bring two ropes and you can rappel down right next to the falls. You will also be a celebrity when you get to the bottom, so do with that what you will.
That sounds pretty cool - thanks!
llanSan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 130

bishops terrace

dahigdon · · phoenix, Az · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 220

hey climbingcoastie...

You should read the OP's post more carefully... it's obvious that him and his GF will be the only 2 climbing.

When you start your post like this:
"I’m really not trying to sound like a complete jerk, but the first thing I thought of when you said a party of 6 is "hope I don't run into them".

And then sprinkle this in:
"Sorry for the negative comments, but it really bothers me to see people not take others into consideration before heading up something".

You sound like a hypocritical bag-o-douche.

If your worried about running into people, climb on the cat condo in the corner of your dingy living room.

Marcelo F · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 0

Hey! I did Snake Dike (with my wife) for my thirtieth birthday, too! Snake Dike is an amazing experience, and it sounds like you have a good idea of how much effort it will take to climb it. It IS tough to stay psyched at the end of the day, so make sure you're both committed and excited about doing it.

Cathedral Peak is a good alternative, as is Tenaya Peak (even less commitment and lots of options for passing slower parties), and many other domes in the area. October should still be fine in terms of access in TM (usually snow free approaches), but the chances of running into bad weather do go up. You will likely run into other people on these routes no matter when you do it, though it has never been more than a minor nuisance for me.

Anyway, have fun and choose the climb the TWO of you most want to do!

Aaron Hope · · San Luis Obispo · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 341

Yea - Sunnyside Bench is the obvious answer. Then you can have your 4 non-climbing friends meet you at the top via the Sunnyside Bench walk-off. It would be a fun climb for you two and an adventurous hike for them. The hike starts at the end of Sunnyside Bench in the obvious boulder gully/talus field across from the Search and Rescue and Stables. From the Talus field, just reverse the walk off directions in Supertopo. There is some scrambling involved...so make sure they're safe.

Edward_ · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 245

Hey Ryan, when you say you lead 5.x grade, do you mean sport climbing? Or trad? (or gym?)

I ask, because a fall on the crux of Nutcracker is pretty serious, you would break your ankles for sure if you fall at the crux. Some of the other parts of that route are kind of committing.

Cathedral Peak is a lot of fun... it will also be crowded like crazy.

Commitment is "5.9" but the its like 1 move, protects very well at the crux, is very gym like crux and the rest is 5.7. Thats a good one to get started on. If its cruiser, continue up Seliginella. I liked Seliginella a lot more.

Super Slide is a great route too, safe as far as I remember. The route eats up gear, has I think 1 or 2 5.9 moves but the rest is 5.7 or easier.

Harry Daly is pretty cool, but gear is a little tricky in pin scars.

Have fun, be safe.

climbing coastie · · Wasilla, AK · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 95

Jovid,

Point taken, I read the post several times before I responded and have reread again since your comment and at no point did he state that the others wouldn't be climbing with them (other than Snake Dike)! To me it sounded like him and his GF we going to take the group out climbing.

So if I come across as a douche for not wanting him to take several noobs up some of the moderate classics then so be it. It's inconsiderate and rude to do as such in my opinion.

Ryan,

Sorry for the confusion. In that case you will love the climbs on your list and its a good progression to an introductory of Valley climbs. The other suggestions are good also. Hope you enjoy your trip.

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

Sanke Dike is actually not that hard since it's mostly lower angled face (the first and third, crux pitch) and easy climbing on positive holds. However, it is a long day, presuming you don't waste alot of time and energy finding it, and that you're girlfriend is not baked from climbing two days in a row of trad, which it doesn't sound like she's done a lot of. Also, the upper pitches have no pro that I recall (sorry, I soloed it but don't remember seeing any bolts) so you need to be comfortable leading that. Also remember that your friends will need permits if they're to meet you up top.

I think the routes you mentioned on the first two days are fine. Really fun and pretty mellow as far as the Valley is concerned. Don't do Bishop's Terrace if you don't both have solid crack skills, as it is long, has a variety of sizes and will punish someone with poor crack technique. Though more popular than classic, Munginella isn't a bad choice either. Commitment is a good suggestion as it's fun and probably the softest 5.9 in the Valley that I've done. You could do NW Books on Lembert Dome. Zee Tree on Pywiack. There are other choices for less commitment and more fun.

Ryan Maitland · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 10

Marcelo - awesome! I'm really stoked on it and she is as well, but the longest approach she's had to deal with is in the 1-2hr range to follow a 3 pitch route. So we're talking about double the length of approach, climb, and descent - although the route I'm referring to was a runout 5.9+R. Coincidentally my first sport lead....

Edward_ wrote:Hey Ryan, when you say you lead 5.x grade, do you mean sport climbing? Or trad? (or gym?) I ask, because a fall on the crux of Nutcracker is pretty serious, you would break your ankles for sure if you fall at the crux. Some of the other parts of that route are kind of committing. Cathedral Peak is a lot of fun... it will also be crowded like crazy. Commitment is "5.9" but the its like 1 move, protects very well at the crux, is very gym like crux and the rest is 5.7. Thats a good one to get started on. If its cruiser, continue up Seliginella. I liked Seliginella a lot more. Super Slide is a great route too, safe as far as I remember. The route eats up gear, has I think 1 or 2 5.9 moves but the rest is 5.7 or easier. Harry Daly is pretty cool, but gear is a little tricky in pin scars. Have fun, be safe.
Good question - I've led mid 10's sport and up to 5.8 on gear outdoors. I project 11's on the gym.

I anticipate leading all pitches unless anyone has any good/safe options for giving my girlfriend a shot at the sharp end!

Thanks a bunch for the beta on Nutcracker - I may steer away from that if I don't feel confident after climbing the Grack.

I looked at Commitment but backed off as I'm looking for super easy, fun climbing to be sure we're both super stoked and comfortable. It's funny you mention it because I've been secretly trying to find a Bridwell route to get on while we're there. Sounds like this could be the ticket.

Keep the feedback coming!
climbing coastie · · Wasilla, AK · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 95

I'll add to what Edward said about Nutcracker. Make sure you place a piece right after the crux to protect your second! Second time I climbed it my partner didn't do this, but placed a piece after the traverse right. I was looking at a swinging fall onto a nice slab. One of my least favorate moments climbing ever!

Eric Fjellanger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2008 · Points: 870

Committment is so fun, it's my favorite short route in the Valley, and it's true the crux is short and at the very top.

If you're solid at 5.8 trad don't be too scared of the crux on Nutcracker. Before the first time I climbed it, I was totally psyched out by what I'd read. The moves aren't that stiff, and I think if you have some brass nuts or a tiny cam you can even protect it to make it somewhat safe.

After 6 is great.

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

Ryan,
You might want to consider the Royal Arches. It is a mellow climb and long. Your girlfriend will be happy to know that the approach is about 5 minutes long. It'll give you a good day of climbing without having to worry about booking it back to the car. Bring two ropes to rappel. I did it last month on a single rope and the rappel, while fun, felt like an eternity.

The Central Pillar of Frenzy also has a short approach, great climbing, and great views of El Cap.

Matthes Crest is farther away than Cathedral Peak, but I favor that one in Tuolomne. Personally, I think Cathedral is overrated. FANTASTIC views, but everyone keeps talking about what a phenomenal climb it is, but I don't see it. I thought it was enjoyable, but nothing special. I loved every minute of the Matthes Crest.

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

With threads like these, you need to be mindful of the advise you get, since people have a tendency to tell you about what they've done and like rather than what's appropriate for your skill level.

If he's thinking about backing off on Nutcracker, he has no business on Central Pillar, great climb that it is.

I thought the climbing on Royal Arches was kind of meh, but it is long and has nice views as you climb higher. Certainly good adventure without a lot of walking.

Climbers new to trad will not want to do Matthes Crest as it's a long (but pretty) walk in and there are portions of the ridge that are not well protected (one reason why lots of folks solo it). Moreover, it's hard to bail from.

EJoe · · Mammoth Lakes, CA · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 90
Ryan Maitland wrote:My issue is with Sunday and Snake Dike. The climbing is definitely well within our comfort zone, but the 4hr apprach, 8 hour climb, 4 hour descent is a big day for us. I'm more concerned about the stoke level of my girlfriend, although 16 hours on the go will certainly test me as well. Would something a little easier to get to/from like SE Buttress of Cathedral be a better option? That's in the meadows so I'm just not sure if the weather/access there in October is good for that route. Also, tourist/climber clusterf@#% level is something I'm not familiar with - if anyone has beta on what days/areas are jammed in this timeframe I'd love to hear it.
I'll comment on this bit, since it seems to be the focal point of your questions-

Snake Dike entirely depends on how fast you hike, how many parties (if any) are in front of you, and whether you and your GF are comfortable simuling. Assuming you are the first on route, you should link the first 3 pitches in 2 with a 60m (take the "alternate" bolted belay on top of p1 per Supertopo). This gets both crux pitches out of the way and puts you on the dike in 2 pitches. From there, you just simul in one push until you reach the last pitch's headwall. The climbing is very secure, and the dike section is so run out that it's essentially a controlled free solo regardless of how you climb it. If you follow this method, you could probably go from base to visor in 2 hours (or less), including the "slab for days" section. As far as the approach, you can also do that in 2-ish hours with the Watkins/Liberty Cap approach. This is assuming you hike fast and don't make the obligatory tourist/photo stops along the mist trail. In short, you can make this a fairly quick hike/climb if you're committed to being first on route and don't get lost. Since this is your first time in Yosemite, I'd take the "getting lost" bit seriously.

Cathedral shouldn't be that crowded in October, but the 2015 season has admittedly been a zoo compared to the past two years. I remember doing both Cathedral and Matthes late in the 2014 season, and I was one of 3 parties on Cathedral and the only party on Matthes. It does get quite cold (which likely keeps the crowds away), but both routes are thankfully in the sun. The approach trail to Cathedral was recently restored, and is pretty much idiot-proof.

Good luck and happy dirty 30.
Ryan Maitland · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 10

Fat Dad - thanks for looking out. I'm definitely filtering out some of the noise, because while I may love to take some of those routes on, my primary goal here isn't to push my grades but rather to have a blast and get as high as I can with my girlfriend. Bonus if we can meet at the top with the rest of the crew, but definitely not a requirement.

EJoe wrote: I'll comment on this bit, since it seems to be the focal point of your questions- Snake Dike entirely depends on how fast you hike, how many parties (if any) are in front of you, and whether you and your GF are comfortable simuling. Assuming you are the first on route, you should link the first 3 pitches in 2 with a 60m (take the "alternate" bolted belay on top of p1 per Supertopo). This gets both crux pitches out of the way and puts you on the dike in 2 pitches. From there, you just simul in one push until you reach the last pitch's headwall. The climbing is very secure, and the dike section is so run out that it's essentially a controlled free solo regardless of how you climb it. If you follow this method, you could probably go from base to visor in 2 hours (or less), including the "slab for days" section. As far as the approach, you can also do that in 2-ish hours with the Watkins/Liberty Cap approach. This is assuming you hike fast and don't make the obligatory tourist/photo stops along the mist trail. In short, you can make this a fairly quick hike/climb if you're committed to being first on route and don't get lost. Since this is your first time in Yosemite, I'd take the "getting lost" bit seriously. Cathedral shouldn't be that crowded in October, but the 2015 season has admittedly been a zoo compared to the past two years. I remember doing both Cathedral and Matthes late in the 2014 season, and I was one of 3 parties on Cathedral and the only party on Matthes. It does get quite cold (which likely keeps the crowds away), but both routes are thankfully in the sun. The approach trail to Cathedral was recently restored, and is pretty much idiot-proof. Good luck and happy dirty 30.
Joe - thanks! This is pretty much what I was looking for in terms of feedback. I'd assume we average about 2mph on the approach, so not really fast but certainly not slow. I guess we'll just have to see how Friday/Saturday go and then come up with a birthday gameplan from there. Leaning towards cathedral due to the easier approach, but we'll see how it goes.

Thanks so much for all great the feedback so far!
Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60
EJoe wrote: This gets both crux pitches out of the way and puts you on the dike in 2 pitches. From there, you just simul in one push until you reach the last pitch's headwall. The climbing is very secure, and the dike section is so run out that it's essentially a controlled free solo regardless of how you climb it. If you follow this method, you could probably go from base to visor in 2 hours (or less), including the "slab for days" section.
This is just spectacularly bad advice. Given that the OP doesn't appear to have done a lot of trad and his girlfried even far less (or any at all), what rationale is there for advocating they that essentially solo the upper dike pitches? Given that the only pro is more or less at the belays, you're looking at the possibility of two relatively inexperienced climbers simul-soloing 5th class, roped together, several hundred feet above the deck. How is this a good suggestion?
Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

I just love these threads....

My advise.... find a place to camp... go boulder. go climbing... not on the longest stuff in the Valley. Go to Manure Pile, Glacier point apron, 5 open books, Bishops Terrace. All all fabulous and most likley better than anyplace you have ever climbed at. Remember the days are pretty short, the nights long and cold .... you do not want to get benighted.

This is the advise I give to all my friends who are looking to climb something BIG..... Higher Spire, regular route. Sit on that sucker and just look around.

but take the time to just hang at the bridges, walk to the falls, soak the place in and feel the vibe.

4/5 days isn't enuf really...

have fun

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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