New bolts at Crow Hill
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I asked honnold, what he thought, here's his reply. |
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I heard he climbed in a gym once. |
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sara pax wrote: Just because a guide says it doesn't make it true.I could be wrong, but I think there was some sarcasm involved. |
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15 pages about a few bolts . . . I'm glad I live out west where rock is plentiful and multiple ethics can exist. |
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I'm surprised that no one has brought up the legality of bolting on state property. While it doesn't say anything specific about bolting in the Mass DCR regulations they can certainly be construed to prohibit it. Would the land manager (DCR) be part of the climber's coalition? |
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I would assume that any coalition worth half a length of rope would be in touch with the DRC. |
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So maybe the bolts, at least the idea of bolts was beneficial for the popularity of a trad climb. Gave it a hell of a lot of publicity. |
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Just so nobody tries to go ahead and do something on their own that could backfire, the WMCC have been holding ongoing conversations with DCR (the primary manager of public lands in Massachusetts)concerning issues of climbing management. As is often the case, this is a slow and often tedious process, but progress is being made. While we can't at this time guarantee any results, we are trying to work towards as 'climber-friendly' a policy as is realistically possible. Please be patient. |
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Alan Rubin wrote:Just so nobody tries to go ahead and do something on their own that could backfire, the WMCC have been holding ongoing conversations with DCR (the primary manager of public lands in Massachusetts)concerning issues of climbing management. As is often the case, this is a slow and often tedious process, but progress is being made. While we can't at this time guarantee any results, we are trying to work towards as 'climber-friendly' a policy as is realistically possible. Please be patient.Al, We ran into these same issues in RI where the "right" to climb on state lands was ambiguous and unevenly interpreted. We were successful in getting the DEM to specifically state in the regulations that rock climbing is permitted in all states parks and management areas except one seaside cliff. In MA it says "(20) Technical climbing, or mountaineering, of sufficient difficulty to require the use of ropes or other forms of specialized mountain climbing equipment to aid in ascent or descent, shall be allowed only in areas designated for such activity by DCR." The DCR lists three areas in MA on their website for rock climbing: Leominster State Park (Crow Hill), Hammond Pond, and Quincy Quarry. So all other state land is closed to climbing? Probably not but it sure isn't very clear. CT has equally ambiguous regulations. Good luck. |
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Yes Brian, that is why we (Jeff Squire, primarily) began our discussions with DCR, because of that ambiguity and it's effect on climbing on the areas they manage in this region, which led to their invitation to work with them on a (hopefully) more inclusive policy. |
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Someone was mumbling about the tree anchor on Jane being uprooted on the back. Has anyone seen that? |
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Jonathan Haggerty wrote:Someone was mumbling about the tree anchor on Jane being uprooted on the back. Has anyone seen that? If there's no tree anchor, how will we TR?!Bolt anchor! Duh!! |
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Bill Kirby wrote: Bolt anchor! Duh!!Nah... just use the next tree behind it or to the side... until that ones dies then onto the next! Its the Trad way, ya know conservation and all. |
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Wait, Johnny Appleseed is from that area. We should just get him to plant a new tree in that spot. |
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I guess I have to quit climbing since I don't want to free solo. I wish they didn't set the bar so high. |
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Morgan Patterson wrote: Nah... just use the next tree behind it or to the side... until that ones dies then onto the next! Its the Trad way, ya know conservation and all.Ya know joke and all.. Edit: Wow! Sometimes I can't comprehend the English language! My bad Morgan |
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Skyhooks and duct tape? |
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Faith and a good stance? |
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Luc wrote:Skyhooks and duct tape?don't forget about 40ft bungie cords |
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Sky hooks and duct tape tied off with strings, these are a few of my favorite things, |