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Tendon Injury Between Finger and Wrist

Original Post
RitaK · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0

I am trying to figure what I could have injured in my finger or wrist.

I was doing some hand board training, just hanging on pocket holds using the middle and ring fingers when I tried to pull up I felt a pop in my wrist and sharp pain in my ring finger. I have full mobility in my finger and minor pain but cannot crimp and apply my body weight = lots of pain on wrist on palm side of the hand. I can use my index and middle finger without discomfort.

What tendon/ligament could be affected? I know is not a pulley tendon, maybe the flexor?

Thanks!

Highlander · · Ouray, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 256

Sounds like flexor tendon injury. I did my ring finger this past Winter, 4 months till I was able to climb without pain, but really weak, I had to keep all four fingers on the hold to avoid pain, buddy taped fingers for a long time including daily activities. I am 8 months in and still not quite 100% but getting there. I avoid middle/ring grip on pockets.

drewp · · Vegas · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 1,616

sounds similar to my flexor tendon thing. A key thing about it for me was after a few weeks I could hand on pretty hard with all four fingers on, say half crimp, but as soon as my pinky came off the hold and dropped toward my palm it was too painful to hold anything.

If you have the same thing I did, my recovery was a year. Pain free after 1.5 years. My advice is to go crack climbing, get a gri gri, and avoid belaying without gloves, as yarding on a rope seemed to aggravate mine.

RitaK · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0

Flexor tendon seems to be culprit... thanks for the insight. I plan to tape my finger to prevent a full curl of the finger and just keep training. I hope is not that long of a recovery.

Abel Jones · · Bishop, CA · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 646

Careful with the "keep training". I'm on 8 months with an unknown amount of partial tear in my ring and pinky and I'm still only able to crack climb pain free even after steroid injections six weeks ago. My biggest regret is trying to climb through it for the first month or two which only seemed to increase the injury. The smart way would have been to rest it until I could return pain free with easy climbing to slowly re strengthen it. I mean I'm doing it now.... With 8 months lost. These take a long time to heal... Find other interests which I know is a hard thing to do for a dedicated climber. Good luck.

RitaK · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0

Good point Abel... I can always work on becoming the best belayer in the world ;-)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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