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Easy climbing, short approaches, winter.

Original Post
mortarmonster · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 0

Hello all, looking to pick your brains please...

I'll be flying into Phoenix late november for 3 to 4 weeks. This will be my first visit to AZ/NM.

My original plans have been well and truly scuppered by a knee injury and I'm about to start on 12 weeks of rehab. Hopefully, after this I'll be up for some easy climbing.

My idea of easy is below 5.9, and preferably low angle.
I will also need easy approaches - fairly short, with no boulder-hopping.
Nearer to the road, the better.
It also needs to be climbable conditions in late nov/early december.

Multi=pitch or single, trad or sport, doesn't matter.
It doesn't even have to be in AZ/NM, but as I say, Phoenix is my starting point so not too far away...

All ideas gratefully received.

Tim Heid · · AZ · Joined May 2009 · Points: 2,520

I would think that the Girlie Man Area would be a good bet. The approach is about 10 mins of mostly flat desert trail, although the last 50 yards is a bit steeper. The climbing is not very stellar, but there are about 10 routes or so that are less than vertical and <5.9. As a plus, it's pretty close to town.

mortarmonster · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 0

Thanks for that Tim.

Also, just wondering how much of the climbing at lower elevations on Mount Lemmon would fit the bill?

drewp · · Vegas · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 1,616

I mean, the approach to the Pond is short, and there's come fun easy sport there. You will have to pull on a sling and climb a rebar ladder.

And although a lot of the approaches at lemmon dont fit your bill, you might check out hairpin and green slabs.

edit to say that if you're thinking of driving to lemmon (3ish hours from phx) you might consider that Jtree, the land of non-approaches, is only 4 from phoenix.

mortarmonster · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 0

Thanks. Checking out those suggestions.

Yes, I'm quite willing to drive 4 hours, as I'll be around for 3-4 weeks.
I may well go to J Tree, and also wondering about stuff in San Diego area.

However, J Tree is the one place in the area I have already visited, and probably already done most of the easy climbs with easy approaches. Some of the scrambling up boulders there can be pretty bad for dodgy knees, though it's true that you can't get much easier than Echo slab as an approach!

dahigdon · · phoenix, Az · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 220

Atlantis in Queen Creek is a short approach.. you get out of your truck, walk 40ft, then rap into the canyon. Lots of moderate routes. Could be chilly in November though. Not much sun.

1Eric Rhicard · · Tucson · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 10,126

Not a lot of easy on mount Lemmon. The majority of routes are from 10-11. There are easier routes but they are scattered about. If you climb trad the Green Slabs have a number of routes in the more moderate range. In November it can be cold though. Hairpin has some stuff but I wouldn't drive from Phoenix unless you can climb harder than 5.7 and can walk a little.

Manny Rangel · · PAYSON · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 4,789

That's right up my alley.

Pinnacle Peak is relatively easy walking, especially if you climb the lower stuff instead of the Pinnacle itself.

I like Camelback but I'm perverse that way; love choss. It's good enough and a short approach to the Headwall.

The Library at East Verde is a little over an hour north. Not a great deal in your range though but there is some.

Christopher Creek Gorge has some easy sport and trad with a varied approach, time-wise. (I post info on rockclimbing.com)

Thumb Butte is near Prescott, about an hour and half to north. Easy walk.

Queen Creek has been mentioned and there are several areas with little approach.

mortarmonster · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 0

Thanks for the suggestions; I've got plenty to look into...

mortarmonster · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 0

OK, so this is provisional plan.

Fly into Phoenix, climb at Queen Creek maybe 3 days.
Drive to Mt Lemmon, also about 3 days.
Drive over to Truth or Consequences / Socorro area, climb at Red Rock Arroyo
and the Box.
Up to Santa Fe to climb at White Rock & Diablo Canyon and soak in some hot springs.
then back via Flagstaff to Prescott area (Thumb Butte)
and to Pinnacle Peak / McDowell (Sven slab and Girlie Man).

Thats about 3 weeks worth I reckon. (and about 1200 miles).
If I have time, maybe do a trip up to St George area too.

Welcome any comments, anywhere I've missed or doesn't seem suitable?

Also, how cold is it likely to get in december? Trying to decide whether I need a new sleeping bag. Will it get as cold as J Tree?

Thanks again.

Manny Rangel · · PAYSON · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 4,789

Sounds like a fun itinerary. Santa Fe will be your coldest destination. Both Prescott and Flagstaff could be chilly but you should be fine. Mt. Lemmon will be great cause at that time you'll probably be lower on the mountain.

There is a lot more to Prescott than Thumb Butte. Check out the Granite Dells too.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Arizona & New Mexico
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