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Quickie in the Keene/Lake Placid Area

Original Post
Michael C · · New Jersey · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 340

If you were in Keene/Lake Placid, and had 4-5 hours to do a climb what would you do? Looking for a classic recommendation that can accomadate time restraints. thank you!

M Santisi · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 1,874

Pete's Farewell and The El. Climbing is roadside and you could easily climb both within your time restraint. Only warning is these climbs do get very busy since they are uber classics.

Unknown Unknown · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,830

The regular route on Chapel Pond Slabs is also a good option. Very easy climbing with a couple of stellar pitches. I just got back from a couple of weeks in the area and Pete's / The El is the only place we encountered any kind of traffic the whole time.

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

Your profile says you lead 5.4 so with that in mind..

Regular Route BUT.. If you're not fast it will take more than 4 hours.

The First pitch of Tilman's and their variations then Shipton's

The Beer Walls. All these can TRed with a static rope. Jugs of Beer to 3.2 to Afternoon Delight

Michael C · · New Jersey · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 340
Bill Kirby wrote: Your profile says you lead 5.4 so with that in mind.. Regular Route BUT.. If you're not fast it will take more than 4 hours. The First pitch of Tilman's and their variations then Shipton's The Beer Walls. All these can TRed with a static rope. Jugs of Beer to 3.2 to Afternoon Delight
Onsighted a 5.6 a few weeks ago!

Going up with a guide. Day 1 we're doing Colden Wine Bottle. Day 2 is a half day.

Pete's Farewell looks really cool. But this is on a Sunday, and I'd rather not deal with crowds.

Anybody familiar with the Barkeater Cliff?
Luc-514 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 12,506

Barkeater is a nice place but you have a 40 minute hike in.
Big bertha 5.6
Fun City 5.7*****
Are the notably easier routes
Mr. Clean
Piece o pie ?

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

Nice!!

Going out to Colden and back is the big day. You guys are smart to do a half day afterwards.

The last pitch of Petes has a lot of air under your feet. The crux is low.

What were you thinking? Bertha's or the first pitch of Overdog?

Tom Sherman · · Austin, TX · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 433

Bill I was going to shoot you a message for last weekend, but I'm confused, you live in Maryland? live in the daks? your in the daks every weekend? I don't get it?

Peter Garnsey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 21

Have to go ahead and disagree with the 40 minutes to barkeater. 20 minutes. 30 tops.

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

It feels like 20 on the way in and 40 minutes on the way out.

ClimbLikeAGirl · · Keene Valley · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 15

I like a lot of the routes described here-- Reg Route up CP slab, Pete's, El, etc.

Another awesome moderate adventure is Quadrophenia (5.7) on Hurricane. One of the most exciting 5.7s in the park, in my opinion!

ClimbLikeAGirl · · Keene Valley · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 15
Peter Garnsey wrote:Have to go ahead and disagree with the 40 minutes to barkeater. 20 minutes. 30 tops.
I entirely agree with this. Let's call it 25 minutes and I bet that's still generous.

And also, with Bill K. It ALWAYS feels longer on the way out when you're hungry for beer and Inn burgers!

Edit: I had to look at the guide book because I'm neurotic and as it's described the Barkeater has a "25 minute, easy" approach.
Luc-514 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 12,506

Ok, guess I have a crappy memory, beer and burger theory sounds right.

Michael C · · New Jersey · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 340

On a map, barkeater doesn't look too far.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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