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California
> Lake Tahoe
> I-80 Corridor
> Donner Summit
> Black Wall
> 1. Black Wall - Left
New Moon
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.4 from 52
votes
Routes in 1. Black Wall - Left
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Birdie S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bliss T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bliss Direct T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Blowups Happen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Bourbon Street T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Can't Stop the Dance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Cannibal Gully T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Don't Try This At Home S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Empty Overgo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Empty Sky Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Fascination T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Firecracker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Full Moon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Future Games T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Headstone T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Hungover Hangover T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lubrication T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mojito Run T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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New Fascination T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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New Moon T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Next T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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No Stems No Seeds T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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On Ramp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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One Hand Clapping T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pinball Junkie T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Primer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rambo Crack T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Rat Ramp S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rat's Tooth T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rythym Killer S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Sky Pilot T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Skywalker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Slipstream T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Space Invaders S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Space Modulator T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Super Slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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There Goes The Neighborhood T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Touch A Cannibal T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Touch and Go T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | John Hoffman and Max Jones, 1976 |
| Page Views: | 3,525 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Colonel Mustard on Aug 6, 2011 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Ky Bishop, Colby Wangler, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Black Wall seasonal raptor closures
Details
Mind nesting raptors that raise young on the Black Wall some years. If you sight a peregrine, contact Dan Joannes, staff biology guy for the Truckee Donner Land Trust at Daniel@tdlandtrust.org
Description
Starting on face holds, New Moon quickly joins up with a right leaning finger crack before you traverse left into the upper part of Firecracker crack about 15-20 feet before the roof. The finger crack gradually widens and the crux is probably some rattly fingers before you start getting thin hand jams. Eventually, the crack widens up and basically ends at a jug. At this point take that louie into Firecracker.
New Moon allows a bypass of the wider areas on Firecracker if your rack is short a bigger piece or two and you're not feeling like a run out. The knowledge that at twilight hundreds of bats pour out of the roof section on Firecracker should comfort bat lovers too. Maybe not when you're cranking the crux, however.
New Moon allows a bypass of the wider areas on Firecracker if your rack is short a bigger piece or two and you're not feeling like a run out. The knowledge that at twilight hundreds of bats pour out of the roof section on Firecracker should comfort bat lovers too. Maybe not when you're cranking the crux, however.
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