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Best guide book for Maple Canyon

Original Post
Vanessa · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 5

Any recommendations? There seem to be two, one by Wolverine Publishing and another by Darren Knezek. The latter includes a few other areas such as Log Canyon, Round Valley and Mt Nebo Foothills. Are these areas worthwhile?

Daniel Winder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 101

Darren's
/thread

Leify Guy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 367

I second Darren's

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

The two books each have their pros and cons. The Knezek guidebook is a much more complete "locals" book. It has pretty much all the crags, both in Maple and the surrounding area. This allows you to sample more widely (although this is both a blessing and a curse, since most of the off-the-beaten-path stuff can be pretty sandy/chossy). This book also covers the many moderate multipitches in the canyon, so that is good. It was lots of history and nice pictures, and the accurate route names. The grades are kind of BS, though, especially at the upper end. It seems like the author mostly put in the book the original FA grades, not the modern consensus grades. For whatever reason, the 12s tend to be sandbagged in the book (lots of consensus 12c given 12b), while the 13+/14- routes are graded higher than consensus than consensus (various consensus 13d given 14a). Also, the descriptions of the harder routes aren't very informative in terms of telling you what the route is like; it seems like all the descriptions are the same, or have no relation to the actual route.

The Pegg/Wolverine book is a slimmer volume written by an outsider. It will direct you only to the well-traveled popular routes, which again is a blessing and a curse. Less options, but it helps keep you away from the sandy junk. The grades in this book are seem much more accurate in the 12s and 13s; Pegg pretty much just used to consensus ratings from 8a.nu for the book. This book also offers better descriptions of the harder routes, which is nice if trying to pick out a project. I think that Pegg's book is easier to use for a first time visitor, and is a smaller book to put in the pack. The names are unknown or incorrect for some of the more obscure routes (but at least the grades are correct...)

So it really depends on what you want. If you are a local and want to adventure around on the off-the-beaten-path routes, get the Knezek book. If you are a visiting climber operating in the 5.8-5.11 range, again the Knezek book is probably better since it covers those grades more extensively. If you are a visiting sport climber operating in the 5.12-5.14 range and want to be directed straight to the best harder crags/routes, get the Wolverine book.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,711

The "locals" guide would be DK's. I find I like to know route names and FA stuff.

I know some of the grades got adjusted down a bit here and there and that can be a bummer for some folks...

If you like variety and a larger number of routes...and local info...and a greater number of crag options...more complete info...

Get the Knezek/Knight book. Also does support the locals who put so much time and effort into the area.

Vanessa · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 5

Thanks guys!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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