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Shiprock... a Closing Adventure

Gary Lee Hicks · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 12

WOW:O)

Who wudda thunk all this info would arrive before us if "Lee" had not started this conversation? I wish all of us could go to the base of Ship Rock and smoke a Peace Pipe.

My personal beliefs are the "Americans Indians" were treated just like the buffalo were... or the wolves.
[ I personally have raised or rescued over 28 "wolves"... and many other "varmints" ];

Every time we leave a light on... we kill another polar bear cub.

On CBS Sunday Morning News last week there was an article about just getting CLEAN WATER on the "REZ".
Little old ladies, traveling miles away, just to have descent water to cook with.

I "Ponder This" night and day. Since 1986, I have barely slept more than two or three hr-s each night trying to get my own self in place,,, and those of others who are filled with "misplaced virtue" ; We are All brothers and sisters trying to ' find our way' ... and it's not easy for any of us. Try as we may... it's a long difficult road.

I have survived ( since 1970 ,,, or you could say... since 1954 ) numerous events where I should have died.

There are so many people (our brothers and sisters! ) around this world right now suffering... I ask each of you, "Do we really need to be arguing about what is 'right or wrong' when it comes to someone's "check list"???

In the early 1980-s; Mike Smith and I were PAID with permission to guide a photo- whatzit
to climb to the summit of Enchanted Mesa. We had the permission from the gov of Acoma Pueblo.
It was a beautiful experience,,, and it was with full permission of the Governor of Acoma Pueblo.

Brothers and Sisters of ALL races,,, Please note I am only trying to bring us all together in the understanding that we are ALL CHILDREN of the STARS. We are all related; it's only a matter of Time before we all realize exactly that.

[ If any of you have ever climbed simply by the "Light of the Stars" ... then you know whereof I speak .]

God bless the wolves. God Bless the buffalo. And God Bless America's Natural Treasure,,, THE AMERICAN INDIAN

May the Great Spirit keep our future generations ' in her heart' .

Yeego Yi'naa · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 35

I have mixed feelings regarding this. I've been climbing & rappelling for more than a decade with indigenous youth. Chances are, their climbing experience is limited to the time spent in these outdoor programs. Still, they benefit from it and will always cherish trips to the Cochise Stronghold & Jurassic Park.

There are few places to take them climbing & rappelling on Dine'tah. What little we have access to is always inquired about, first. Although, there are plenty of potential climbs, not everyone should have access. Would churches let you climb their steeples and walls? Just because you believe in Santa Clause doesn't mean you know what is sacred.

I saw destruction in a recent video, though disguise as cleaning, of a spire being climbed on Dine'tah with the climbers happily tossing down loose rocks. Rocks that have been there for eons. I know it is a big challenge for a lot of people to understand and accept what the Dine' people consider sacred, but that's ok, you don't need to understand. Just try and accept. Not all Navajos have the same concept of what is sacred, even.

I hope one day, there will be more places to access for climbing & rappelling on Dine'tah. But, I don't think it should be open to all. The world has enough routes for you to climb and tread. The culture of living your life like a car commercial is overrated; you shouldn't go everywhere and anywhere. Some places just don't want you. Just so.

Mark Dalen · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 1,002

Yeego & Quentin & Alex:

I can't tell you how exciting it is to hear from you all! Growing up in Farmington & with Ship Rock on the far horizon I often wondered: 'Why are there no Dine climbers, don't they know what they have?' Turns out you are & do. It does seem a cruel irony that while native climbers go through channels others just go up & do it. My taste for that kind of exploit distinctly soured since I got busted soloing Enchanted Mesa a decade or so ago ... while being detained at the visitors center at the foot of Acoma Pueblo I had a long conversation with the young supervisor there, trying out the various justifications others on this thread have used including: 'Enchanted Mesa is sacred to me, too.' He was having none of it ... turns out I was in violation simply by existing, sort of like an undocumented immigrant ... on hearing that I humbly asked if I could have my gear back & go home.

Is it too ambitious to expect that a resolution to all the current controversy over access & naming rights might lie in a few agreements & understandings reached among fellow climbers ... ?

Gary Lee Hicks · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 12

There was a simple rule to climbing Ship Rock in the "Early days"; Do Not Die HERE.

Every time you climb,,, or every time you drive ,,, or anything you do; be a co-pilot.

To quote John Denver from his song , "Rocky Mountain High",,,,,,, "... seeking Grace with every step I take."

May we all seek to do the same with every WORD WE SPEAK.

I yell to you, my friends,,, "ON BELAY!!!!!!!"

Gary Lee Hicks · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 12
Yeego Yi'naa wrote:I have mixed feelings regarding this. I've been climbing & rappelling for more than a decade with indigenous youth. Chances are, their climbing experience is limited to the time spent in these outdoor programs. They benefit from it. There are few places to take them climbing & rappelling on Dine'tah. What little we have access to is always inquired about, first. Although, there are plenty of potential climbs, not everyone should have access. Would churches let you climb their steeples and walls? Just because you believe in Santa Clause doesn't mean you know what is sacred. I saw destruction in a recent video, though disguise as cleaning, of a spire being climbed on Dine'tah with the climbers happily tossing down loose rocks. Rocks that have been there for eons. I know it is a big challenge for a lot of people to understand and accept what the Dine' people consider sacred, but that's ok, you don't need to understand. Just try and accept. Not all Navajos have the same concept of what is sacred, even. I hope one day, there will be more places to access for climbing & rappelling on Dine'tah. But, I don't think it should be open to all. The world has enough routes for you to climb and tread. The culture of living your life like a car commercial is overrated; you shouldn't go anywhere and everywhere. Some places just don't want you. Just so.
Yeego... I love your statement!!! It makes me wanna take a smoke break, so I can ponder a sweet reply. BRB :o)

OK,,, I'm back :o|

There are so many things I wish I could state... but Time is also a factor in our busy world.

To be brief; I have been climbing since 1970. Early on in my introduction to climbing, I was also introduced to the festivals of the surrounding reservations throughout New Mexico; I watched the dances, I went house to house and was well fed with great food,,, but more importantly,,, I was treated as an honored guest. We were treated as if we were family. I will never lose my Love of the American Indian.
I was barely 17 yr-s old at the time and I am now 61.
I have survived climbing all across North America,,, and I pray that no one has to die to "boost their ego".

Your post reflects my own heart ; but that's gonna be a much longer story!!!!!!!

" doG asked Noah,,, "How long can you tread water? " "
Gary Lee Hicks · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 12

Creator,,, I thank you. We seem to have come to a point of Peace.

Creator. I still have one question.

Who was the first woman to... ???

Luke Mehall · · Durango, Colorado · Joined May 2009 · Points: 2,508

cool thread (mostly other than the non-sensical ranting) super interesting to read about Shiprock and other desert towers on the Rez. Jason Haas wrote a good piece for Rock and Ice a while back too.

Totem Pole looks incredible, nice photo!

I'd love to publish some of these photos, and even a story for The Zine. Holler at me if you're interested. (it pays)

luke@climbingzine.com

www.climbingzine.com

Gary Lee Hicks · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 12
Luke Mehall wrote:cool thread (mostly other than the non-sensical ranting) super interesting to read about Shiprock and other desert towers on the Rez. Jason Haas wrote a good piece for Rock and Ice a while back too. Totem Pole looks incredible, nice photo! I'd love to publish some of these photos, and even a story for The Zine. Holler at me if you're interested. (it pays) luke@climbingzine.com climbingzine.com
Hey Luke... Thank you for your post :o)

Hopefully, we've all calmed down a little bit, and I can go to bed now.

Please listen for my wolves to howl... it means we are all good :o)
Gary Lee Hicks · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 12

Luke... I just looked at the site you gave us; would you like to buy my rope from 1972 ?
It's in good condition; it's your brand!!!

Make me an offer but don't make me puke.

Did you really come into this discussion becuz it mattered to you??? Or do you just wanna sell us some ropes???

Tim Kemple · · Salt Lake · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 170

I had always had Shiprock on my list, but never pursued it because of the closure. Then in 2004 Cameron Burns published "Postcards From the Trailer Park" (which is a great read). In one of the chapters he described finding the leaseholder for the land that the formation was on and asking permission.

A few years later I did just that, with a few friends. It wasn't difficult, I just asked a roadside vendor and she gave me directions. I can't recall the gentlemans' name, but he was very hospitable. At first he was reluctant to grant permission because of liability, and the difficulty of rescue. After I explained that I was quite experienced and rescue was unlikely, he had me write out a simple waiver and gave us permission not only to climb, but to camp on his land.

We did the route the next day (major choss pile) and encountered 2 guided parties who were poaching the route! At least we felt that we had done the right thing. When we go home we sent a thank you box full of NH stuff and got a nice reply. All in all, a memorable outing, but far from one of the better routes I have done.

Mark Dalen · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 1,002

Hey Gary - Luke publishes one of the better climbing zines I've seen in a long time ... & I've seen a lot of them come & go ... I think he's just suggesting Quentin et al. submit something for it ... sounds like a plan to me!

tenesmus · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2004 · Points: 3,023
Yeego Yi'naa wrote:I have mixed feelings regarding this. I've been climbing & rappelling for more than a decade with indigenous youth. Chances are, their climbing experience is limited to the time spent in these outdoor programs. They benefit from it. There are few places to take them climbing & rappelling on Dine'tah. What little we have access to is always inquired about, first. Although, there are plenty of potential climbs, not everyone should have access. Would churches let you climb their steeples and walls? Just because you believe in Santa Clause doesn't mean you know what is sacred. I saw destruction in a recent video, though disguise as cleaning, of a spire being climbed on Dine'tah with the climbers happily tossing down loose rocks. Rocks that have been there for eons. I know it is a big challenge for a lot of people to understand and accept what the Dine' people consider sacred, but that's ok, you don't need to understand. Just try and accept. Not all Navajos have the same concept of what is sacred, even. I hope one day, there will be more places to access for climbing & rappelling on Dine'tah. But, I don't think it should be open to all. The world has enough routes for you to climb and tread. The culture of living your life like a car commercial is overrated; you shouldn't go anywhere and everywhere. Some places just don't want you. Just so.
We need more voices like yours. Thank you for this perspective.
Lee Davis · · Belen, NM · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 350

Who was the first woman to... ???

The first four women to react the top were Jean Aschbacher, CMC, May 1955. Julie Johnson Apr '57, Phyl Kopko, Apr '57, and Jo Ann Elliot, May '60. Later, Liz Robbons did the Climb with Royal and a 17 year old Pat Ament (sept 64)

Lee Davis · · Belen, NM · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 350
Topp Plaque

Bernie Topp was a young airman who was stationed at Ft Bliss in El Paso. He became a Southwestern Mountaineer in the late 50's and did a number of climbs in the Organs. He was killed of course in the Black Bowl in 1957. In 1958, Harry Davis, Ron Hahn, Dick Ingraham and others placed the plaque on Shiprock. They also named Topp Hut in the Organs for Bernie. The hut was originally built in the 1930's (I believe) as housing for the miners in the area. They were after fluorspar in the mines above the hut. The Hut is the standard starting point for all of Rabbit Ears Canyon, as well as the Low and High Horns. I actually met some of the Mexican miners that were working the mine in November of 1967... and they (I think 6 of them) were living in the hut. The mine itself was a shaft that went hundreds of feet down at a very steep angle. We had immediate respect for those guys, to have the nerve to go into that spooky shaft. One time, after a climb on Citadel, the miners invited us in. They had a pot of pinto beans, and something that was red and meaty that was the best thing I have ever tasted, to this day. Friendly fellows! Of course, the ideal approach was to start at the Mine... right at the top, where the trail starts. The road from the hut up to the mine is one of the great adventures in life. I actually made it in my '56 ford one day, and once in Dick ingraham's Carryall. Most times, we walked it though.
Topp Hut

Rabbit Ears Massif above Topp Hut
Sadly, it appears that the roof of the hut is gone. Back in the late 60's, I spent a stormy night in the hut, warm and dry. Those days are gone also. I spent that night out of the weather... No wonder I long to remember the early days, and Topp Hut so much. The concrete floor was no bother at all...
Reed Cundiff · · Sapello, NM · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 0

Sorry Lee, I did Shiprock in September 1959 with Dave Hammack. I think it took about two or three hours. I think he did it previously with Axel Nelson and one other of the 1940-1950 Sierra Club greats. The heat got to our third member and he decided to stay at the overhangs (the rappel down after Black Couloir - or whatever it is called) since he could stay in the shade and had enough water. Dave us 86 now and still does the La Luz Trail several times each week. His son Davito is a superb climber (whom I have only met when he was about 2 in 1960 or thereabouts and he has grandkids climbing.
Reed Cundiff

Lee Davis · · Belen, NM · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 350

I took a drive up to Shiprock last weekend. It was both sad and exhilerating for me. Nothing has changed. The mountain is still imposing and formidable after all these years. Is there anyone that would like to meet me there sometime? I would like to go up and get a rubbing from the plaque to the memory of Bernie Topp. I would buy the beer. Lee Davis

Gary Lee Hicks · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 12
Lee Davis wrote:I took a drive up to Shiprock last weekend. It was both sad and exhilerating for me. Nothing has changed. The mountain is still imposing and formidable after all these years. Is there anyone that would like to meet me there sometime? I would like to go up and get a rubbing from the plaque to the memory of Bernie Topp. I would buy the beer. Lee Davis
Dah!!! I've been trying to reply to your post here for the past half hr,,, but too many people distracting me right now,,, trying to tell me what to do; they don't get it that it's NEW YRs EVE!!! No TOWing my truck across town to a repair station that is CLOSED!!!

Otherwise,,, I'd be happy to have you buy me a beer :o)
Lee Davis · · Belen, NM · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 350

Sadly, Royal Robbins died yesterday. Made me recall my conversation with Pat Ament about Shiprock. He has great memories of doing the peak in 1964 with Royal and Liz Robbins, when he was 17.

Gary Lee Hicks · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 12

Just saw your post about Royal Nubbins. Thank you for letting us know...
Royal was a great inspiration to my friends and me as we began rock climbing in the early 1970-s. I still have his book on how to tie knots :o)

Dah,,, unfortunately, the book on knots is by Walt Wheelock ,,, "Ropes, Knots & Slings for Climbers" ... Revised Edition ,,, by Walt Wheelock ,,, illustrations by Ruth Daly ,,, revision by Royal Robbins ..... La Siesta Press 1967.

Len Margolin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0

I climbed Shiprock in 1971, with Bill Hendry, Steve Schum and George Rinker.  I think it was the last legal climb before the Navajos officially closed the mountain to climbers.  We climbed with sleeping bags and left them in the caves above the Honeycomb gully to go on to the summit.  At the time, it appeared (from Los Alamos Mountaineer notes) there were 2 aid pitches and we planned the extra time to work on those.  In fact, we did free the horn pitch. It was awkward and very strenuous, but mercifully short.  We were disappointed that the key flake on the flake pitch had been broken off by some previous party.  The caves are very shallow, we slept tied in with legs hanging over the lip.  During our drive to the base in a backwheel drive sedan, we had bottomed out and lost the muffler.  In the middle of the night in the caves, we were awakened by the sound of a car missing a muffler driving across the desert floor.  Our car was parked on the other side of the mountain, so we couldn't tell whether is was our vehicle possibly stolen and we feared the worst. Guess there are a lot of cars without mufflers on those roads, our car was still where we left it.  For me, the scariest part of the climb was the final rappel in the basalt gully.  The fixed piton was just wedged behind some heavy rocks, rather than driven into some respectable crack.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Arizona & New Mexico
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