What do you use for ditch biners on a sport route?

Grumpy Gym Climber wrote:...perhaps you shouldn't be climbing.

Yeah that's it...I should just quit climbing. Thanks for helpin gme see the light.

bearbreeder wrote:unless of course you simply dun give a shiet about other climbers

That's pretty much what that dude said. Makes you wonder why he even bothers to be on this site.

reboot wrote: That's pretty much what that dude said. Makes you wonder why he even bothers to be on this site.

Well it's certaily not to meet people.

In summary:

Anyone who has been climbing a significant amount of time should have plenty of leaver biners sitting around. Use them if you need to. If your answer is "downclimb", you probably aren't climbing hard enough. Quicklinks suck unless they are left at an anchor. If you leave QL's in the middle of a climb, you are a dick. The simplest answer is don't leave anything. Stick clip, pull on draws, climb an adjacent route, walk to the top, Texas rope-trick, use a stronger partner, beg the party climbing next to you...whatever it takes to get to the anchors and/or get the gear off. Luckily for those that don't care about the next climber, these are also the "cheapest" options.

csproul wrote:In summary: these are also the "cheapest" options.

Very true and I am cheap enough to beg before leaving even my $2.00 quick link behind.

/Dick

P.S.
Man you guys are uptight nerds.

M Sprague wins.

If you use a Trango Squid, you have the option to stick clip down the route too, since it can unclip draws from bolts. May be easier, depending on how high you are on the route.

-obtain stick clip using Sprague's method.
-lower down to next bolt.
-clip directly to bolt with quickdraw. Use Squid to remove quickdraw from bolt above. Have belayer take up slack.
-unclip from bolt directly, lower to next bolt. Repeat.

Grumpy Gym Climber wrote: If you are not willing to spend $2-$3 more for the sake of others, perhaps you shouldn't be climbing.

You dont even need to. I already said it's possible to buy bail biners on this very website for $3-4 each. I just saw some get sold for $3 each yesterday.

i've seen biners for as cheap as $1 on here. come to think of it, I regret not buying some of those as I later spent like $5 on a cheap oval from omega

When I was new to climbing I used to carry bail biners, quick links, aluminum rings, extra webbing and other pointless shit. After 20 years of climbing I've bailed a handful of times for various reasons and have added gear to rap anchors periodically. I have found way more gear than I have left. Not to mention I piss more down the toilet each visit to the bathroom after drinking fancy micro brews than bail gear could ever amount to.

Hence, I don't waste any energy carrying specific bail gear. All of my gear is bail gear. It is a waste to carry extra stuff that is not part of my regular rack. If I really need to bail, a $12 biner or a $60 cam is fair game. But, a few Biners and a few nuts my be all that is necessary in most cases.

My bail biners are ones I have found that normally carry my camera and anchor rope / slings etc and anything else on my harness that I don't plan on using while climbing. Single pitch Generally I don't carry them because if I need them someone can toss them up to me.

Greg D wrote:When I was new to climbing I used to carry bail biners, quick links, aluminum rings, extra webbing and other pointless shit. After 20 years of climbing I've bailed a handful of times for various reasons and have added gear to rap anchors periodically. I have found way more gear than I have left. Not to mention I piss more down the toilet each visit to the bathroom after drinking fancy micro brews than bail gear could ever amount to. Hence, I don't waste any energy carrying specific bail gear. All of my gear is bail gear. It is a waste to carry extra stuff that is not part of my regular rack. If I really need to bail, a $12 biner or a $60 cam is fair game. But, a few Biners and a few nuts my be all that is necessary in most cases.

What he said.

Every time I go to the gym and climb on plastic it costs me and my partner upwards of $30 in entry fees. When I climb outdoor it is almost always free; losing a few biners the odd time I bail from an outdoor route is a small price to pay for the experience I get and the safety it affords.

I'm happy to bail using a good locker and or sling. Any day of climbing then going to the gear shop to buy stuff not headed to the ER is good times in my book.

It's funny though how many times I've felt like bailing but just can't bear.. The thought... Of leaving that $8 carabiner!!!!

If I can´t finish a route, I usually just "down lead it". Meaning I downclimb while unclipping. Sometimes I might have to take a small fall but it (almost) always works.

Moritz B. wrote:If I can´t finish a route, I usually just "down lead it". Meaning I downclimb while unclipping. Sometimes I might have to take a small fall but it (almost) always works.

Depends on the route, normally if you aren't finishing something the route may be to hard to down climb it without taking alot of whippers. (depending on how it is bolted)