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Climbing area ethics

Original Post
Lukus · · St. Louis · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 100

So going through a bunch of my old books I found an old notebook with a few areas that have since falling off the local climbing mind. Doing my research today I found that access is still good there and climbing is allowed. The question is should I go clean these areas up and keep them just for myself and my crew or should I let the community at large now and hope that the local climbing community will help with the cleaning and maintenance.

Zac St Jules · · New Hampshire · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 1,188

following

grog m · · Saltlakecity · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70

When you say what should I do it insinuates that you are looking for orders or are starting an annoying ethics thread. I think you are looking for the input of others so perhaps you should state it that way. My input is that it is very dependent on the area conditions. Is this Wyoming or New Hampshire? Are we talking multiple 4 star routes? Trad, sport? Is it high quality rock or a choss dispenser? How accessible are the areas? All of these will factor in YOUR decision.

Lukus · · St. Louis · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 100

I'm just looking for a couple other opinions. I suppose that I did word that first post a little off. It's climbing in southern Missouri that ranges from limestone to sandstone. Mostly bouldering and sport that the bolts need checked. Most the areas are pretty easy to get to by Midwest standards. There are a a smattering of 4 star routes and a plethora of 3 star routes.

Andrew Gram · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 3,725

If there aren't any access issues and it isn't a new area that you are actively developing, it is a real gift to the community to clean, replace bad bolts, and then let people know.

Lukus · · St. Louis · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 100
Andrew Gram wrote:If there aren't any access issues and it isn't a new area that you are actively developing, it is a real gift to the community to clean, replace bad bolts, and then let people know.
I'm only actively developing one and it'll stay a secret until I feel it's worth showing to the community.
The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air · · Portland, OR · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 70
Lukus wrote:So going through a bunch of my old books I found an old notebook with a few areas that have since falling off the local climbing mind. Doing my research today I found that access is still good there and climbing is allowed. The question is should I go clean these areas up and keep them just for myself and my crew or should I let the community at large now and hope that the local climbing community will help with the cleaning and maintenance.
As a person who was born and raised in St. Louis and lived in Springfield, MO, please share the areas. You might also want to pose this question in the Springfield Area Climbers group on Facebook.
Lukus · · St. Louis · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 100
The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air wrote: As a person who was born and raised in St. Louis and lived in Springfield, MO, please share the areas. You might also want to pose this question in the Springfield Area Climbers group on Facebook.
I posed the question there.
Donovan Allen · · Soft Lake City · Joined May 2012 · Points: 356

Any chance these routes are by Stockton/ humansville?

grog m · · Saltlakecity · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70

The midwest could use more climbing areas. One of the worst things that can happen to a sweet climbing area is noobs going there to party and littering. If you are going to develop the area then you should be the steward and champion. Set the ethics in a way that the original routesman and any climber could respect.

Lukus · · St. Louis · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 100

So I'm making a list of all the areas that I have so far I'll be reaching out to a few people here in Missouri about it but as we lack a Missouri wide climbing organization it might come down to dedicated locals to maintain a lot of these areas. If anyone knows some like super solid dudes over in Kansas City, Springfield, Columbia so I can try to get a group together and disseminate the info out to the rest of the state.

Dave Hug · · Carbondale, IL · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 12,145
Lukus wrote:So I'm making a list of all the areas that I have so far I'll be reaching out to a few people here in Missouri about it but as we lack a Missouri wide climbing organization it might come down to dedicated locals to maintain a lot of these areas. If anyone knows some like super solid dudes over in Kansas City, Springfield, Columbia so I can try to get a group together and disseminate the info out to the rest of the state.
Lukus, I am always interested
Clint White aka Faulted Geologist · · Lawrence, KS · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 151

KC has lotsa good peeps. Join the KCCC on FB and post it up. I would be down for a weekend trek for some restoration. PM.

Paul Hutton · · Nephi, UT · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 740

I was reading the thread until I saw that this is in MO, with 4 star routes. YES! Put some work into it! I'm from Blue Springs, MO. There's not much climbing around. If there's a place with 3 or 4 start routes that has potential to be enjoyable to the community, that thing needs to be babied! I'm active duty military, stationed in Sicily right now. I've been in love with climbing for the past few years. I'm always practicing it in my free time. I've even done some weed-whacking in places that I love, here, that I spend a lot of time at. When I get back home, pehaps we can partner up, work on some crags, and enjoy some climbing together.

I just hope your climbing is better than your grammar and literacy.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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