What do you use for ditch biners on a sport route?
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M Sprague wrote: Your belayer lowers you down to the bolt below the one you fell on. Now clip a draw from your belay loop to that bolt. Your belayer then gives you enough slack that you can tie a figure 8 in the belayer's side of the rope coming down from the upper bolt. ....Thank you. I understand now, and I think that is a great idea! |
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If there have been tests done and it held up fine then maybe I'll throw it into my bag of tricks. |
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M Sprague wrote:So, if you are going off a biner, you are either trusting one biner and bolt or leaving two biners (one for each of two bolts).Not really. It's possible to bail off a bolt without losing redundency. Just take your GriGri, grab the belayer-side of the rope, thread the GriGri BACKWARDS, with the belayer as the "man" and you as the "hand.", and clip it to your belay loop. Now what you essentially did is create a lead rope solo setup. If the bolt pulls, you're going to whip on one of the lower bolts with your belayer acting as a counterbalance weight. You can also use a prusik, which is more simple to setup, although I would trust the GriGri more. edit: never mind looks like someone already covered it. As far as bail biners go, just buy some here on M Project. I was selling some for $3 each awhile back, and I often see them go for around that. |
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I use my partners biners. |
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If you have to bail just use what you have on you. |
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M Sprague wrote:I don't. I stick clip through the part I can't dog through if necessary. Safer and you don't leave crap for other people to deal with. To get your stick, get lowered down enough so you can clip in direct to the second bolt down and clip off a knotted bight from the upper one (so you are into two bolts direct and the belayer can take you off), then lower a loop to retrieve the stick. Pull it up, belayer puts you back on belay. Unclip the bight and from direct into the bolt and aid your way through the hard section.This |
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I use a carabiner. You should too. |
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i don't bail, i downclimb. plus, the only place i ever sport climb, i know the route equip-er and i know that all the bolts get checked relatively frequently by myself, the route equip-er, and probably other people I don't know. so if i couldn't down climb, i'd be fine trusting 1 bolt with a biner taped shut |
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eli poss wrote:i don't bail, i downclimb. plus, the only place i ever sport climb, i know the route equip-er and i know that all the bolts get checked relatively frequently by myself, the route equip-er, and probably other people I don't know. so if i couldn't down climb, i'd be fine trusting 1 bolt with a biner taped shutSo you and the route equipper personally whip on every bolt on all the routes you climb? |
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I use the ole sling trick, rap, and pull my sling. That way no one, but my partner knows I wimped out. |
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Marc801 wrote: I guess it bears repeating yet again. DO NOT USE QUICKLINKS FOR BAILING on a sport route. As someone pointed out, they're a pain in the ass for any subsequent party to deal with. They become a super PITA when they rust shut in a few weeks.You can repeat yourself and make all the noise you want...I leave the cheapest thing I have on me behind. If that as a quick link then thats what I leave. |
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Allen Sanderson wrote:I use the ole sling trick, rap, and pull my sling. That way no one, but my partner knows I wimped out.Yep. The Texas Rope Trick. Aside from having a stronger partner, it is the cheapest way to bail. See thread : mountainproject.com/v/getti… |
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gription wrote: You can repeat yourself and make all the noise you want...I leave the cheapest thing I have on me behind. If that as a quick link then thats what I leave.So your attitude to other climbers is basically "screw you!"? |
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Marc801 wrote: So your attitude to other climbers is basically "screw you!"?Pretty much |
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So when I happen on a piece of booty...I don't feel screwed at all. |
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Jake Jones wrote:Who carries around quick links?Me..one on my haul loop |
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Jake Jones wrote: Why?Cheap and light Jake Jones wrote: Specifically for bailing?Yes Jake Jones wrote: And why on your haul loop?Out of the way. |
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The difference in price between a new quicklink and a new "cheap" carabiner is about $2, heck you can even get a new locking biner for $5 if you look around. If you are not willing to spend $2-$3 more for the sake of others, perhaps you shouldn't be climbing. I mean most folks are going to spend more than that on a beer after climbing. |
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if one does use a quicklink ... please use a rated one and not a hardware store one ... ;) |