Interesting Bolt Placement

Yes, that bolt is mine. Being a trad climber, I like an anchor behind me for belaying a leader (heavier or not). I thought better of it and moved the anchor to the wall under the overhang. I sank its partner, but that one is a spinner. I couldn't get the nut to release to drive the stud to the bottom of the hole.

Alan,

Thanks for the feedback, and thank you for putting up so many kick ass routes..

I am mostly a trad climber and use a Gri/Gri, Cinch, Guide ATC off the bolts on two 24 inch runners on a sliding x for redundancy and non extension down to the master point carabiner. 48 inch runners would take a quick minute to tie two limitation knots. Belaying off the anchors keeps me out of the belay system so I can see the climber or deal with assisting.

I enjoy sport climbing thanks to dedicated people like yourself and recently learn how much money, time, and the procedures you go thru setting routes from a veteran route setter in Castlewood Canyon.

Thanks to you all for drilling bolts and putting up quality routes.

teece303 wrote:If you'll pardon my ugly mug, there it is with a little more context. And sans bolt.

Just saw the above mentioned bolt for the first time in person yesterday... That thing needs to go ASAP! It's horrifying to think that anyone would EVER put a bolt in a boulder like that, let alone 2! Bad judgement.

What bolt?

Alan,

Isn't that incredibly frustrating to try to fix a spinning wedge bolt?

It had never happened then I had a couple in a row that drove me crazy (I used a funkiness device to try to set the wedge that then messes up the threads and then its really a stuck spinner - I had to come back with a Makita with metal blade and saw them off). I have a theory about why it happened. They were on near-horizontal placements where the drilling dust doesn't clear as easily. Near max depth the dust at the bottom doesn't clear and gouges the rock to over-diameter. Thus the spinning. Most of the hole is fine so even though it is spinning it isn't ever coming out.

Since then I've moved the drill up and down to help clear and I remove the drill immediately at max depth and it hasn't happened.

Anyway, a theory...