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New bolts at Crow Hill

mattyo Yo · · Boston, Massachusetts · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 5

I asked honnold, what he thought, here's his reply.
tubechop.com/watch/6766149

Jonathan Haggerty · · West Acton, MA · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 195

I heard he climbed in a gym once.

GrantF · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 5
sara pax wrote: Just because a guide says it doesn't make it true.
I could be wrong, but I think there was some sarcasm involved.
bus driver · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 1,516

15 pages about a few bolts . . . I'm glad I live out west where rock is plentiful and multiple ethics can exist.

Brian · · North Kingstown, RI · Joined Sep 2001 · Points: 804

I'm surprised that no one has brought up the legality of bolting on state property. While it doesn't say anything specific about bolting in the Mass DCR regulations they can certainly be construed to prohibit it. Would the land manager (DCR) be part of the climber's coalition?

mattyo Yo · · Boston, Massachusetts · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 5

I would assume that any coalition worth half a length of rope would be in touch with the DRC.

Anyway, I got on the route this weekend and it's pretty sweet. Dirty as all hell but once you found the holds, it's got great movement. Classic slopers on horizontals with the occasional jug to let you catch your breath.

Luc-514 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 12,506

So maybe the bolts, at least the idea of bolts was beneficial for the popularity of a trad climb. Gave it a hell of a lot of publicity.

Yeah, getting local managers involved is a good thing, but it can also lead to impromptu closings. You have to find a friendly administrator, willing to test the waters without risking the rath of less forgiving managers.

Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 10

Just so nobody tries to go ahead and do something on their own that could backfire, the WMCC have been holding ongoing conversations with DCR (the primary manager of public lands in Massachusetts)concerning issues of climbing management. As is often the case, this is a slow and often tedious process, but progress is being made. While we can't at this time guarantee any results, we are trying to work towards as 'climber-friendly' a policy as is realistically possible. Please be patient.

Brian · · North Kingstown, RI · Joined Sep 2001 · Points: 804
Alan Rubin wrote:Just so nobody tries to go ahead and do something on their own that could backfire, the WMCC have been holding ongoing conversations with DCR (the primary manager of public lands in Massachusetts)concerning issues of climbing management. As is often the case, this is a slow and often tedious process, but progress is being made. While we can't at this time guarantee any results, we are trying to work towards as 'climber-friendly' a policy as is realistically possible. Please be patient.
Al, We ran into these same issues in RI where the "right" to climb on state lands was ambiguous and unevenly interpreted. We were successful in getting the DEM to specifically state in the regulations that rock climbing is permitted in all states parks and management areas except one seaside cliff. In MA it says "(20) Technical climbing, or mountaineering, of sufficient difficulty to require the use of ropes or other forms of specialized mountain climbing equipment to aid in ascent or descent, shall be allowed only in areas designated for such activity by DCR." The DCR lists three areas in MA on their website for rock climbing: Leominster State Park (Crow Hill), Hammond Pond, and Quincy Quarry. So all other state land is closed to climbing? Probably not but it sure isn't very clear. CT has equally ambiguous regulations. Good luck.
Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 10

Yes Brian, that is why we (Jeff Squire, primarily) began our discussions with DCR, because of that ambiguity and it's effect on climbing on the areas they manage in this region, which led to their invitation to work with them on a (hopefully) more inclusive policy.

Jonathan Haggerty · · West Acton, MA · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 195

Someone was mumbling about the tree anchor on Jane being uprooted on the back. Has anyone seen that?

If there's no tree anchor, how will we TR?!

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480
Jonathan Haggerty wrote:Someone was mumbling about the tree anchor on Jane being uprooted on the back. Has anyone seen that? If there's no tree anchor, how will we TR?!
Bolt anchor! Duh!!
Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,945
Bill Kirby wrote: Bolt anchor! Duh!!
Nah... just use the next tree behind it or to the side... until that ones dies then onto the next! Its the Trad way, ya know conservation and all.
mattyo Yo · · Boston, Massachusetts · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 5

Wait, Johnny Appleseed is from that area. We should just get him to plant a new tree in that spot.

GrantF · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 5

I guess I have to quit climbing since I don't want to free solo. I wish they didn't set the bar so high.

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480
Morgan Patterson wrote: Nah... just use the next tree behind it or to the side... until that ones dies then onto the next! Its the Trad way, ya know conservation and all.
Ya know joke and all..

Edit: Wow! Sometimes I can't comprehend the English language! My bad Morgan
Luc-514 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 12,506

Skyhooks and duct tape?

M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911

Faith and a good stance?

Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,945
Luc wrote:Skyhooks and duct tape?
don't forget about 40ft bungie cords
Suburban Roadside · · Abovetraffic on Hudson · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 2,419

Sky hooks and duct tape tied off with strings, these are a few of my favorite things,
When the Dog bites, when the bee stings when I'm feelin' old . . If You hit the ground You won't care about those things at all.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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