ARC Training/Rock Prodigy

I recently purchased the Anderson Bros. Rock Climber's Training Manual. I excitedly went out to start the Base Fitness phase with my first ARC workout on my home bouldering wall. I knew I wasn't in great climbing shape (only climbed 3-4 times in past 4 months) so I was aiming to climb 15 mins. non-stop. However, I came crashing back to reality when I got pumped at about 5 mins in.

I was able to finish the 15 mins, but was taking longer and longer breaks towards the end. I was really working on keeping momentum and climbing using the easiest holds. The whole point of the workout is to not get pumped. Anyone else have the same problem? Am I just that out of shape? Will it slowly get better as I continue through the Base Fitness 4 week period?

My burning forearms and bruised ego need information!

Yes it gets better. Since the goal is continuous climbing, use easier terrain.

Same experience here, but the good news is that you should start seeing results pretty quickly. If your bouldering wall is really overhanging you're gonna need some megabig jugs to stay below MSS. Remember that the book says you should be ARC'ing on vertical to slightly overhanging terrain.

Bigger holds until you can do the 15 min, and then decrease size of the holds from there.

Also, while the goal is to be continuously on the wall, you don't have to be continuously moving. You want to learn to control the pump at a manageable, not to push through until you redline and fall off. It is ok to stop at a good hold and shake out. This is actually a good thing, and an important aspect of ARCing. Learning to rest and depump while still on your arms is an incredibly valuable skill that many climbers are surprising bad at. Fortunately, it is an easily trainable attribute and learnable skill-- and the ARC workout is the time to do it. When you start to get a little too pumped find an OK (but not amazing) rest hold and shake out. It is important that this is still a strenuous rest; if you are using a hands free stem or a massive bucket you are missing the point.

My bouldering wall is pretty steep and hard to ARC correctly as well. I have found what tends to work for me is maybe just using my hang board to ARC (not as great) or I'll just go to my bouldering wall and use the holds while walking my feet around on the floor (just because you have foot jibs doesn't mean your feet HAVE to be on the wall). This will make your wall more "vertical". Just try not to put too much weight on your feet and be sure to do some actual moves on the wall. Then once stronger doing more on the wall becomes easier.

ARC'ing is aerobic by definition. If you are getting pumped you are not ARC'ing. Keep trying easier and easier terrain until you are getting heavily fatigue, but not pumped, in a minimum of fifteen minutes (but preferably thirty minutes). Like someone else pointed out, what you're climbing on should be vertical to slightly overhanging. ARC'ing is like medium distance running, getting pumped implies similarities to sprinting. EASY TERRAIN is the key. Throw your ego out the door and find a suitable 5.8, VERTICAL.

Scott E. wrote: If you are getting pumped you are not ARC'ing. Keep trying easier and easier terrain until you are getting heavily fatigue, but not pumped, in a minimum of fifteen minutes ... getting pumped implies similarities to sprinting. EASY TERRAIN is the key.

Disagree. A steady, sustainable moderate pump is exactly what you want. This does not mean a burning, hands opening pump, not does it mean easy either. Arcing is all about managing moderate pump.

If you don't beleive me, listen to the Andersons. From the RCTM: "Each set...20 minutes...develop and maintain a pump that can be sustained for the duration. It should be as severe as is tolerable short of falling off or flailing...modulate the grip size, angle, and movement difficulty as needed to dial in the perfect pump."

(Note: I think the above passage somewhat overstates the correct intensity. "As severe as possible" doesn't seem quite right, but still, getting kinda pumped is the point).

While I'm quoting the training bible, regarding resting: "A fun challenge [while ARCing] is to locate increasingly improbable and awkward rest positions...Avoid easy rests that unweight the arms, practicing active rests instead."

JCM: "A steady, sustainable moderate pump is exactly what you want." The word "sustainable" is the crux here. The word "pump" is somewhat subjective.

Thanks for all the advice.

My wall is adjustable so I already had it at slightly overhanging. I think I started by trying to judiciously use all sorts of grips rather than just jugs. I think I'm just really out of shape and need to keep at it.

How many times a week did you ARC when you first started? Any tips for aiding a speedier recovery?

Ice and good nutrition.

After reading all the advice, I moved some holds on the wall to facilitate easier climbing. Using mostly finger jugs I was able to control the pump, shake out more frequently, and complete 2x15min circuits. Feels good (especially the ice afterwards)!