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In search of obscure autumn sport climbing

Original Post
Emma Anderson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 0

Hi all! I'm looking for somewhere a little off the beaten path to explore come fall. I live in Washington state but I'm happy to travel wherever domestically. I would like to avoid the hordes at places like red rocks, smith, joshua tree, etc. What are your favorite warm-during-the-day/cool-at night-spots?

Dana Walters 1 · · Pacific Northwest · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 212

Metaline Falls

Banks Lake

Northrup Canyon

Ethan clarke · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 5

Metalink falls won't have anyone neither will china bend and they both some of the best limestone in the north.

chris magness · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 590

Arkansas has a boatload of climbing, development is exploding! Horseshoe Canyon will be busy, but other areas are quieter such as Mt. Magazine and Jamestown. Sam's Throne has lost popularity to HCR and has a number of sport routes, although a rack would be helpful there.

Temps stay favorable through December provided you stay in the sun.

Dana Walters 1 · · Pacific Northwest · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 212
Ethan clarke wrote:Metalink falls won't have anyone neither will china bend and they both some of the best limestone in the north.
http://acmeclimbing.com/inlandnorthwestrockclimbsbook.aspx

is the appropriate guidebook for the limestone treasures of the north. Pork Sausage located in China Bend is one of the best 11a's in WA
Jon Nelson · · Redmond, WA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 8,191

Emma,

If you drive over US2 from the west, about 20-minutes before getting to Leavenworth there are two unadvertised sport-climbing spots. One has very little approach and nice camping. It is along White Pines Road (if I remember right - it is just before the knife shop) and called the Railyard, or sometimes Nason Creek. The other is a little further down and called Nason Ridge. Both are heavy in the 5.11 grade.

Emma Anderson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 0

Thanks all! Jon, I've wanted to check out the White Pines area for a bit (not sure what all is down there) but Nason Ridge is way above my grade right now :) Someday I hope! I'm not familiar at all with the climbing around Spokane so thanks for the heads up that those areas exist, they sound very worthwhile.

Emma Anderson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 0
Dana Walters 1 wrote: acmeclimbing.com/inlandnort… is the appropriate guidebook for the limestone treasures of the north. Pork Sausage located in China Bend is one of the best 11a's in WA
Perfect, thanks!
Dana Walters 1 · · Pacific Northwest · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 212
Emma Anderson wrote:Thanks all! Jon, I've wanted to check out the White Pines area for a bit (not sure what all is down there) but Nason Ridge is way above my grade right now :) Someday I hope! I'm not familiar at all with the climbing around Spokane so thanks for the heads up that those areas exist, they sound very worthwhile.
If you like super pumpy 5.11+ with a high concentration of 5.12+ climbing on interesting rock, check out Deep Creek about 15-20 minutes from downtown spokane
Ashort · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 56

The Obed in Tennessee. Good camping, great community, and beautiful that time of year.

greenergrasspublishing.com/…

John Byrnes · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 392

Do you really want obscure, or just uncrowded?

Weekdays in Rifle during Sept & Oct is the best sport climbing in the country.

Jan Tarculas · · Riverside, Ca · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 927

have you thought about Mammoth Lakes area? They just came out with a new guidebook to the area. Owens river gorge is near by which is also the most concentrated sport climbs (in a given area) in California, maybe even the west coast. It will be less crowded once they close the 120 so everyone from Norcal wont' be driving through Yosemite to get there

MisterE Wolfe · · Grass Valley, CA · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 8,092

Bump

I put up 10? or so routes at Nason Ridge, the highlights being the 3 11's right of the roof area (L to R): Gunstone - 5.11c, Roofus - 5.11d, & Airborn Ranger - 5.11c.

Would love to see some kind of topo for this area at some point, the original sheets we were all writing our topos in just disappeared one day...

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346

Possibly Spearfish Canyon (South Dakota). Not sure how it's in the fall, but I suspect it's fine and the limestone there is great with no crowds. Tons of other cool stuff to do there too. Great hiking in the Black Hills.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Sport Climbing
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