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Best grade IV & V 5.12s in North America?

Original Post
20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346

Every year when I take my bi-annual climbing trip, I always try to pick an objective climb that I want to complete in that season. Anyway, I am trying to get a list of the best, most-classic 5.12s in North America. Among others, I have climbed Rainbow Country in Red Rocks and Moonlight in Zion so those two are checked off. These climbs are still on my list to do:

University Wall to Roman Chimneys (.12a), Squamish
Venturi Effect (.12c), High Sierras
El Sendero Luminoso (.12d), EPC
Rostrum (not .12 but still classic) (.11c), Yosemite

Others?

reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125
20 kN wrote: Rostrum (not .12 but still classic) (.11c), Yosemite Others?
There are a couple recent 5.12s in the valley, rostrum should only be a half day warm up...
Robert Mooring · · Lafayette · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 300

+1 Venturi
Blowhard is also prime at the Hulk 12+

Romantic Warrior 12b - Needles

The most glaring omission imho is The Crucifix 12b on higher cathedral- one of the best climbs I've ever laid hands on

Eliot Augusto · · Lafayette, CO · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 60
mountainproject.com/v/child…

The route next to it is what got me inspired to start climbing. I haven't done this one personally, but anyone I hear talk about it loves it.
Dustin B · · Steamboat · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 1,275

I hear that tague yer time in the black canyon is a pretty good 12. never climbed it though

Wally Fox · · Bend, OR · Joined May 2010 · Points: 196

Thin Red Line at Washington Pass could be on the list!

Robert Mooring · · Lafayette · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 300

And while its only grade III- Heart of Stone in the meadows is one of the most phenomenal climbs on the planet if your head is right

Ryan Palo · · Bend, oregon · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 605
WallyFox wrote:Thin Red Line at Washington Pass could be on the list!
Wally, let's take that down.
Pnelson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 635
20 kN wrote:Among others, I have completed Rainbow Country in Red Rocks and Moonlight in Zion so those two are checked off.
Really? You sent both of those?
MorganH · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 197

I think that "Let it Burn" on CBR deserves consideration.

Andy Novak · · Bailey, CO · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 370

Ariana on the Diamond. Or D1

kiff · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 1,035

All along the watchtower

B Jolley · · Utah · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 172

Notch Peak located west of Delta Utah, highest cliff face in North America
Not quite a 5.12 but, Book of Saturday 5.11a Grade V
This has remained on my list of to-do's.

reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125
snowhazed wrote:The most glaring omission imho is The Crucifix 12b on higher cathedral- one of the best climbs I've ever laid hands on
It's good, but it's also only 4 pitches, with a single 5.12 bouldery section.
Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

20kn..... this is awaiting a second. Grand adventure in one of the most wild places in California.

Despairadoes...

mountainproject.com/v/despa…

mike h · · Front Range, CO · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 24

Jaded Lady, Mt Hooker, WY. (it's on my LONG term list if 5.12/V ever seems reasonable and I'm in real good hiking shape).

Tom Jones · · Calgary, AB · Joined May 2012 · Points: 7,302

This Gripped article has some good beta for the Rockies

gripped.com/news/top-15-har…

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346
Pnelson wrote: Really? You sent both of those?
Sent? No. I fell several times on both routes. I'm not that good. But I am also not the type to bring a ledge up on a route and try to work all the pitches until I send. When I am on a trip I like to focus on as many different routes as I can. I only come back to climb a route a second time if it's incredibly good (which both of those actually are).
Sam England · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 410

The Matrix at Whiteside Mountain in North Carolina. Could be grade III or IV arguably. Also Volunteer Wall and Warrior's Way if you're headed there. Matrix was my favorite but Vol Wall is easier, albeit more choss. Warrior's Way is really good too but lacks the typical "Whiteside Feel" with all of it's bolts.

mountainproject.com/v/the-m…

Robert Mooring · · Lafayette · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 300

Crucifix is 5 pitches....on top of 4 other pitches, cmon. Does the crux being a boulder problem negate the grade? cmon. All the pitches have to be 5.12 for a route to count.... don't know any of those- though venturi is pretty close...

Marys tears to the crucifix is clearly one of the best long routes around. and its 5.12.

Greg Gavin · · SLC, UT · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 888

Monkey Finger
Sheer Lunacy
Plan B
Moonlight
The Silverback
Locksmith Dihedral

All in Zion.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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