Best grade IV & V 5.12s in North America?
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Every year when I take my bi-annual climbing trip, I always try to pick an objective climb that I want to complete in that season. Anyway, I am trying to get a list of the best, most-classic 5.12s in North America. Among others, I have climbed Rainbow Country in Red Rocks and Moonlight in Zion so those two are checked off. These climbs are still on my list to do: |
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20 kN wrote: Rostrum (not .12 but still classic) (.11c), Yosemite Others?There are a couple recent 5.12s in the valley, rostrum should only be a half day warm up... |
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+1 Venturi |
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mountainproject.com/v/child…
The route next to it is what got me inspired to start climbing. I haven't done this one personally, but anyone I hear talk about it loves it. |
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I hear that tague yer time in the black canyon is a pretty good 12. never climbed it though |
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Thin Red Line at Washington Pass could be on the list! |
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And while its only grade III- Heart of Stone in the meadows is one of the most phenomenal climbs on the planet if your head is right |
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WallyFox wrote:Thin Red Line at Washington Pass could be on the list!Wally, let's take that down. |
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20 kN wrote:Among others, I have completed Rainbow Country in Red Rocks and Moonlight in Zion so those two are checked off.Really? You sent both of those? |
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I think that "Let it Burn" on CBR deserves consideration. |
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Ariana on the Diamond. Or D1 |
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All along the watchtower |
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Notch Peak located west of Delta Utah, highest cliff face in North America |
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snowhazed wrote:The most glaring omission imho is The Crucifix 12b on higher cathedral- one of the best climbs I've ever laid hands onIt's good, but it's also only 4 pitches, with a single 5.12 bouldery section. |
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20kn..... this is awaiting a second. Grand adventure in one of the most wild places in California. |
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Jaded Lady, Mt Hooker, WY. (it's on my LONG term list if 5.12/V ever seems reasonable and I'm in real good hiking shape). |
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This Gripped article has some good beta for the Rockies |
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Pnelson wrote: Really? You sent both of those?Sent? No. I fell several times on both routes. I'm not that good. But I am also not the type to bring a ledge up on a route and try to work all the pitches until I send. When I am on a trip I like to focus on as many different routes as I can. I only come back to climb a route a second time if it's incredibly good (which both of those actually are). |
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The Matrix at Whiteside Mountain in North Carolina. Could be grade III or IV arguably. Also Volunteer Wall and Warrior's Way if you're headed there. Matrix was my favorite but Vol Wall is easier, albeit more choss. Warrior's Way is really good too but lacks the typical "Whiteside Feel" with all of it's bolts. |
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Crucifix is 5 pitches....on top of 4 other pitches, cmon. Does the crux being a boulder problem negate the grade? cmon. All the pitches have to be 5.12 for a route to count.... don't know any of those- though venturi is pretty close... |
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Monkey Finger |