Mountain Project Logo

Best Top Rope Solo Climbs Near Salt Lake Valley

Original Post
Philip Burnett · · Ogden, UT · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 313

I just moved down to SLC area, but I can really only climb at 3-4 AM. Haven't found an abundance of partners willing to join me at that time yet....
Please list crags and individual climbs that are easy to get to the top of by hiking or via an easy to rope solo pitch nearby.
I'm looking mainly in the Cottonwood canyons and in the 10 to easy 12 range.
Unfortunately, I have been doing this rope solo stuff for years, so I do know how to do it safely and of course I know I'm "gonna die" so I don't need the reminder.
Thanks

Jim Garrett · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 0
Alpinglow23 wrote: I can really only climb at 3-4 AM. Haven't found an abundance of partners willing to join me at that time yet
Not that it is any of my business, but I'm curious. Why can you only climb for one hour, when it is still dark and cold outside? Are you a vampire that will melt when the sun comes up? Good luck finding those 3 AM partners.
Todd H · · Honolulu, HI · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 1,386

Look at Choss Garden. The right half has a gentle overhang that works for TR. Most of the anchors are easily accessible once you're on top. But you would need to either steeply bushwhack around to the top or rope solo Daisy and the newer extension. Assuming you have more than one hour.

Kevin Piarulli · · Redmond, OR · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 1,683

Bongeater in LCC for sure (right above the park and ride). Also, Ferguson Canyon has great options for TR solo as many of these anchors you can walk to.
I'm sure Big Cottonwood has tons of options too.

Philip Burnett · · Ogden, UT · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 313

I meant to say I have to start around 3-4 to get a session in.

jacob m s · · Provo, Utah · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 135

I have heard good things about mexican crack up LCC, and I like TR soloing at beer can alley up AF, but thats more of a drive.

Also if my shoulder heals up before winter I could be up for an early morning of climbing. I don't know about every week, but once in a while that could be fun.

Philip Burnett · · Ogden, UT · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 313

That works too. Just pm me.

Stevie Nacho · · Utah · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 671

Goodros wall in BCC is a fun TR solo top rope. The crux of this is not angering all people chomping to climb it. I had this popular route all to myself. Climb the 5.6 to the right and you can gain the anchor.

Mark Michaels · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 435

Goodros could be problematic, given the time you want to start.

Its been a few years, but the "host" at the Storm Mountain Picnic area used to be a fairly cranky old guy. As the "picnic area" is closed overnight, even walking through to climb might be a technical violation. But if you parked off the road uphill of Storm Mtn, and commando'd in along the base of Bumble Bee wall, and hiked around to the top and were quiet, should be cool.

zoso · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 790

So it's only a problem if you wear underwear?

Jburton · · Ogden · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 0

Mexican crack can be TR'd fairly easy

Philip Burnett · · Ogden, UT · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 313

Wore underwear and did goodro's this morning. The new camp director was up when I left and just greeted me cordially. I had forgotten about goodro's, so thanks for the reminder.

benb · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 0

I don't have time to search for it right now, but there was a post on this issue fairly recently and a number of good climbs were listed - check the forum archives.

Philip Burnett · · Ogden, UT · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 313
benb wrote:I don't have time to search for it right now, but there was a post on this issue fairly recently and a number of good climbs were listed - check the forum archives.
You're right. I didn't find that in my earlier search. I have quite a few to give a try now. Thanks.

Extreme Unction is a good one, and I remember doing the coffin right side variation on TR solo, but that required very involved scrambling to make it to the anchor.
Donovan Allen · · Soft Lake City · Joined May 2012 · Points: 356

Plumb line

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
Post a Reply to "Best Top Rope Solo Climbs Near Salt Lake Valley"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started