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Cheap Date and Chapel Pond Gully

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480
Kevin Heckeler wrote: That's a time in climbing when men were men, and bolts were scarce. I call it progress, some call it a catastrophe. While I wouldn't bolt someone's route, I certainly wouldn't chop what's there (nor would I have stopped at only quasi-securing the route with only one if I had bolted it).

You said that already. Haha.. I believe the story is the bolt was put by someone who thought they had the FA week after the FA. Just a little too late.
Eric Engberg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 0
Kevin Heckeler wrote: That's a time in climbing when men were men, and bolts were scarce. I call it progress, some call it a catastrophe. While I wouldn't bolt someone's route, I certainly wouldn't chop what's there (nor would I have stopped at only quasi-securing the route with only one if I had bolted it).
FA was done by a woman I believe
Kevin Heckeler · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,616
Bill Kirby wrote:You said that already. Haha..
No way I would ever repeat myself. Impossible.
MaxSuffering · · KVNY · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 0
Bill Kirby wrote: The FA didn't put that bolt there. Can you imagine? My guess would be the nut after the bolt keeps the pitch PG.
Correct. Karen led the route without the protection bolt or the bolt belays. She finished by climbing the grungy rock above what is now the top of P2 and walked off.

There's one section where you definitely wouldn't want to fall but if you get there you're past the crux. I remember being AT BEST a 5.8 leader the first time I did Tilman's (around '95, a good ten years before the quarter-incher was replaced with 3/8" stainless) and the awesome feeling of dropping in that BOMBER stopper after the runout. To this day every time I'm up there I smile as I pass that little slot.
Benjamin Brooke · · San Pedro, CA · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,050

It's been a few years but I remember Cheap Date starting up ten feet of steep corner before it gets slabbier above. I def recall poking around for gear somewhat concerned because I was still a newb and I was bringing a chick from the gym outside for the first time. I'm almost 100% sure that I found a cam above and slightly left of the corner. I remember being really happy to get that clipped and the rest went smooth like creamy jif. Now if you really want to get sketched out keep climbing to the top. The next two pitches suck and have shitty rock, dug out gear and lots of tree islands. Howeva, if you follow this (we named it Leave Your Wallet at Home- it's in the new book) you finish on the last pitch of Beam Me Up which is outstanding. It tops out the gully cliff in style and it's well worth it. Of course had I been with one f my normal climbing bros we most def would have done something else.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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