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Recent Bugaboos conditions

David Carey · · Morrison, CO · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 120

From Applebee, the classic lines are somewhat endless. The routes that go within 30 minutes are McTech Arete, Ears Between, Lions Way, Paddle Flake and others there too.

To get up Snowpatch on a moderate, there is the Snowpatch route. Many others exist over there too.

One thing we wish we did, was plan for a 2 day outing and do the Bugaboo NE Ridge, downclimb the Cain, camp there and then do something on Snowpatch's West face (we really wanted to get on Surfs Up for example) or Wildflowers.

I do not know how much tougher it will be to get to Pigeon on the west ridge, but I would bet that there will be a way there almost guarunteed.

Just go...it'll be awesome.

Jake wander · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 195

wrote a trip report from my june trip to the bugs, thought it might be of use to some of you.

mountainproject.com/v/bugab…

Jarrod LaFountain · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 0

Another year finds me planning for the Bugs. What are current conditions like up there? Insane mosquitoes, crevasses open, Snowpatch? I've seen the latest MCR report but only from 6/5. Anything more recent?

Josh Lewis · · Denver, CO · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 40

I'm also wondering what the conditions are like getting to Bugaboo Spire and Pigeon Spire. Bad shrunds? Crevasse maze?

Josh Lewis · · Denver, CO · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 40
Dave Schultz wrote:Ask about a specific route and you might get a better answer.
West Ridge of Pigeon Spire and NE Ridge of Bugaboo Spire. As for Rainier it's usually a bit broken up at this time of year, but do-able thanks to ladders being installed by guides.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Pacific Northwest
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