The 5.8R chimney in the gully, i.e. the left option

All Locations > Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Perla's Ridge &… > Perla's Ridge (5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R)

The 5.8R chimney in the gully, i.e. the left option

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The loose gully option in the gully, i.e the right (and recommended) option

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Jim D

Aug 27, 2015

“The 5.8R chimney in the gully, i.e. the left option”

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Nearby Photos

Red line shows final part of approach. Blue circles are approximate location of belays. Photo taken from LCC road.

The 6th pitch crux ("off-width") from above

Bobby above the first pitch.

The crux section of the endless dihedral. Picture taken on the rest stance. Constant 5.7 liebacking from the belayer to the rest, hardest at the end as it goes more horizontal/underclingy.

A rough topo of a successful descent. Took us about 30 minutes of moving time. The worst schwack was just before we found the goat trail, but once we found that it was cruiser all the way down.

Perla's Ridge is well upcanyon of all of the Bell Towers, including Waterfall Dome. Photo taken from mouth of Bell's Canyon

A shot of me in the same spot... It's a good spot.

This is the back of Perrla's Ridge as taken from where you first hit the Bell's Canyon trail. As you can see, if you go straight South (right in the picture) you'll hit the forest floor after ~200 feet of downclimbing and rappelling. If you go down the shoulder (left from the peak in the photo) first, you have to go quite a ways or you'll be cliffed out.

Pitch 9, you can either go left or right below the climber. The climber can also go right or left from where he is at.

The 7th pitch 5.7R slab, from there the climber goes left to the arete and stays on it, or wusses out and goes right.

The "Endless Dihedral" corner goes for a whole pitch! Low angle, but sustained (except for one good pod to the left of the crux).

Our descent beta: From an open dirt shoulder just west of the summit rock, corksrew down to the S and E of the peak. We came across two gullies with a sharp viewpoint between them. Take skiers left of these and continue contouring E for a nice goat trail.

Above the first pitch and almost even with The Thumb!

On the right is the headwall. On the left is the steep vegetated dirt. Go all the way to the top of it, then right.

The loose gully option in the gully, i.e the right (and recommended) option

The 5.8R chimney in the gully, i.e. the left option

The original topo

Leading the dihedral.

Summit

Fun day out on the ridge.

Pitch 6 crux (the "5.8 offwidth") from below

The headwall... Climb some low angle (low 5th) to the base of the headwall, and scramble up left throught the trees (3rd). The slabs can also be skipped entirely by heading left early. Or check out all the cool crack systems directly on the headwall!

A shot from fairly high above the road. And we hadn't even started the harder pitches yet!

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