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8mm rope

Original Post
Brennanlytle Lytle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0

Hi, im wanting to start easing my way into big wall climbing and Am looking to gain some information on hauling rope. What haul lines do you use when you big wall climb? And you also rappel using the haul line correct? ( haul line on one side and regular dynamic climbing rope on other)

Paul Hutton · · Nephi, UT · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 740
Brennanlytle wrote:Hi, i need to know what rope to bring on el cap to haul gear and do full length raps with (one side regular climbing rope and the other the 8mm hauling rope.) do i use regular accessory cord or is there a special rope?
I wouldn't go up El Cap with ya. Hope you have a guide or a big wall vet.
20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346
Brennanlytle wrote:can you not post random shit on here please Paul. Im trying to learn how to do things right so i can go up it safely in the future. i dont need you being a dick.
He has a valid point. If you cannot even figure out what size rope to bring on a wall, there is about a 0% chance of you making it up said wall. In addition, in August you asked " what all gear we would need? # of cams and things like that [to climb a wall]", and you asked how much water you should bring on a wall. These are very basic questions that you should know the answer if you're going to actually try a wall.

If you're serious about wanting to climb El Cap, start with your single pitch ability first. You need to be SOLID on 5.10 trad. Also, 5.10a on El Cap is like 5.10+ on single pitch when you account for the extra weight, fatigue and exposure, so at the minimum you should be onsighting 5.10+ on single pitch trad if you plan to lead many of the free pitches.

Then, do a number of grade III .10s and .11s, then a few grade IV 5.10 or 5.11s. I would say at least four or five. Last, do a smaller, entry level wall like the West Face of the Leaning Tower or some other grade V C2. After doing at least two grade Vs, then consider shorter route on El Cap with a partner who has already climbed El Cap. Read Supertopo's Road to the Nose. That should give you a clue.
Paul Hutton · · Nephi, UT · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 740

The regular rope you speak of is dynamic rope. The haul rope you speak of should be static rope--big wall vets say 8mm static rope works best. Big wall vets say that 7mm cordalette can be used for docking (hanging, I guess) on your belay station bolts. The fact that you don't know these simple terms makes it evident that you don't know enough to keep yourself outta trouble. If you're gonna start a fresh thread on BIG wall climbing and only ask about rope, without indicating that you know the terminology, the vets on here are gonna be like "he's still tucked away in his cocoon, no one should encourage him to take advice on what to call rope and what rope to use and send him on his way."

I'll support my fellow single pitch (probably multipitch, also) climbing dude by saying that you're probably in way over your head, if you were to try to live on El Cap with a party full of people that can't answer these questions you're currently asking. I've never climbed a sport route that was more than 4 pitches long. I've never lead a pitch with trad gear that was harder than 5.7 (basically, what I can solo without flaw), or higher than about 60 feet. When I CAN get a partner for multipitch (haven't found anyone badass-enough to join me as often as I'd like) I still struggle with the practice of keeping the two dynamic ropes I have untangled, and setting up a hauling system for hauling up my little newb pig (hauling bag, which I personally wanna call a piglet because I have the Black Diamond Stubby Haul Bag). I commend you for your ambition in the hobby that I love, unconditionally, but both of us aren't ready to live on El Capitan.

Brennanlytle Lytle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0

First off i know that a regular rope is dynamic, im not an idiot and i climb a lot. I also know that 8mm hauling rope is static. I was only wondering if an 8mm accessory cord was okay to rap on, or if there was a different strenth 8mm cord that was used instead. I disnt realize i had to put all my fucking crudentials down to ask a question. 20 kn- i know im asking a lot of questions that are obvious to someone who has dont this before. Im moving to yosemite pretty soon here and want to try some big walls further down the road, i figured knowing it was better than not knowing as you said this is all information that you need to know. So im trying to learn it, i get youre trying to prevent an unqualified person getting hurt trying something out of the relm of possibility. But the reality is that you dont have any background information and dont know when how or in what circumstances im going to by climbing the big wall. That being said thank you 20k for those recommended routs. I already have road to the nose and plan on following its program.

Paul- i would say i am in over my head at the moment, thats why im trying to learn. Secondly i dont know why youre telling me what you can climb. The highest trad ive done is devils tower, ive led every pitch of durance( i know durance is easy). Ive climbed 9+ trad single pitch. I know we arent ready, but unlike you im getting ready.

andrew thomas · · Orcas island · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 105
Brennanlytle wrote: but unlike you im getting ready.
Trying to make yourself feel better? lol

All I got to say is reading a couple books about big wall climbing could help answer these basic questions
Glass Tupperware · · Atlanta · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 45

8mm will feel kind of skinny if you're jugging up it a lot, so you might aim for something closer to 9 or 10. And you probably want something with a higher sheath percentage and lower static elongation. I think there are already several threads on here about preferred haul line diameters.

Brennanlytle Lytle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0

Okay thank you glass.
So something like this would be fine to haul/rap/jug with?

http://www.backcountry.com/blue-water-haul-line-rope-9.5mm?CMP_SKU=BWR3215&MER=0406&skid=BWR3215-RED-S60M&CMP_ID=PLA_GMm001&mv_pc=r101&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=PLA&mr:trackingCode=79C4BC4C-9586-E211-A87C-001B21A69EB8&mr:referralID=NA&mr:device=m&mr:adType=plaonline&mr:ad=77110705717&mr:keyword&mr:match&mr:filter=100041455557&gclid=Cj0KEQjw6vquBRCow62uo-_J_YYBEiQAMO6Hig8391QAW2dXJHzdtqLKyhlBgsloi-ujOJYHx6pauAQaAgVB8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw

Paul Hutton · · Nephi, UT · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 740

I'm sharing my experience to put into perspective how much climbing I've done, and what styles, and still get brain farts on short multi pitch sport routes. And admitting that I'm not ready for a big wall. I've done some stupid stuff and improvised, but, I'd feel LUCKY if I topped out on one of those 5-7 day suckers! I get better and more comfortable every time. I feel as though I'm helping. I've seen people at gyms that hang out with a bunch of crap hanging off their harness, but didn't belay me correctly when I was leading a 5.10 with a final ceiling before the lower-off. I fell above the ceiling, he kept the rope short so only my legs swung under the ceiling. That was surprising to me. At that point, I saw him as a tool! I could easily afford a bunch of slack in the system, considering how high I was, and the hazardous ceiling that my head could hit. I didn't wanna see him outside-- he asked me to join him at the crag, sometime (let alone go up a big wall with him).

Sam Stephens · · PORTLAND, OR · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 1,090

You guys... Take it outside. Jesus

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346
Brennanlytle wrote:First off i know that a regular rope is dynamic, im not an idiot and i climb a lot. I also know that 8mm hauling rope is static. I was only wondering if an 8mm accessory cord was okay to rap on, or if there was a different strenth 8mm cord that was used instead. I disnt realize i had to put all my fucking crudentials down to ask a question. 20 kn- i know im asking a lot of questions that are obvious to someone who has dont this before. Im moving to yosemite pretty soon here and want to try some big walls further down the road, i figured knowing it was better than not knowing as you said this is all information that you need to know. So im trying to learn it, i get youre trying to prevent an unqualified person getting hurt trying something out of the relm of possibility. But the reality is that you dont have any background information and dont know when how or in what circumstances im going to by climbing the big wall. That being said thank you 20k for those recommended routs. I already have road to the nose and plan on following its program. Paul- i would say i am in over my head at the moment, thats why im trying to learn. Secondly i dont know why youre telling me what you can climb. The highest trad ive done is devils tower, ive led every pitch of durance( i know durance is easy). Ive climbed 9+ trad single pitch. I know we arent ready, but unlike you im getting ready.
Well, if you're going to be in Yosemite you will be in the best place in the world to train. Try to lead Sigmaga at the Cookie Cliffs on aid. Lead it, have your second follow it, and haul it. You should be able to do the entire pitch in 50 minutes or less, including hauling. You can also try the first pitch of the North American Wall and the Dihedral wall.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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