All Locations > California > Sierra Eastside > Bishop Area > Pine Creek Canyon > OJ Buttress

Judgito

Name: Judgito
Rating: 2.4

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British

Routes in OJ Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	Cheesy Puff S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Darksaber S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Guilty as Charged S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	If I Did It S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Jersey Tan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Judgito S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Juice is loose, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Mimosa S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Moose is Loose, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Oompa Loompa S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Slow Speed Chase T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Sunflower Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	White Bronco T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

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Type:	Sport, 110 ft (33 m)
FA:	Wolfe/Nutting 2015
Page Views:	1,354 total · 13/month
Shared By:	MisterE Wolfe on Aug 23, 2015
Admins:	Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

*Update 5/24/18: An additional 5 bolts have been added to link this climb to two more moderate pitches above (previously the upper pitches of "Mimosa").*

aka "Pine Creek two-step".

P1: (5.8) SPORT/10 or 15 bolts/110' or 150' Scramble up and right in a gully to the first bolt. Clip two more bolts then get your slab on. Continue up easier terrain to a bulge, then continue left to a sting in the tail. Lower from here, or continue past the anchors and 5 more bolts to an open belay left of the "Mimosa" anchors.

P2: (5.7) SPORT/10 bolts/105': Move left, clip a bolt then mantle onto easy slab. Continue up fun, easy climbing. A short jug-haul delivers you to anchors and an cool stance below a dihedral.

P3: (5.9) SPORT/6 bolts/60': Climb the fun dihedral capped by a roof, then continue up easier terrain to the anchors. Great position with fun moves.

Location

Same start as Oompa Loompa. Look for bolts to the right of dihedral.

Protection

Bolts, Mussy hooks.

Lower or rappel. If linking up the upper pitches rappel from the Mimosa anchors just to the right of the first pitch open belay/ledge.