Beta on Devils Tower
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Hello all. I am interested in climbing Devils Tower in the next 2 weeks on a weekday. I am hoping I can get some information below: |
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Approach is very short and easy. I haven't climbed TAD but I've heard its easier than Durrance. Durrance is HARD if you don't know how to climb offwidth (which I didn't) |
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Yes, Durrance is busy. Get an early start or hit it mid-week. And yes, TAD does suck. I'd rather aid up something clean than climb TAD again. |
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Did Durrance awhile ago when I was just getting started with climbing and found it to be very easy. Basic crack climbing, arm bars, and lots of holds on the face will get you to the top. I do remember cussing in cussin' crack. May help to lose the helmet and trail the pack for that one. Good gear the whole way. |
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Tadtmoos is worse than Tad... |
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Durrnace isn't that bad I'm just saying don't underestimate the Durrance Pitch. It's a long sustained offwidth. It was my first offwidth ever and I thought it was a tough lead. |
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TAD sucks. Or that's at least what Frank at Devil's Tower Lodge will tell you, and he's climbed more on the tower than anyone else. |
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I have done both - and thought Tad was one of the worst climbs I have ever done in 30 years on the rocks. Durrance isn't that bad and I am not the strongest crack climber. I didn't find the off width pitch necessary to climb as an off width - it wasn't bad and options exist that are more straight forward ways to climb it. Start early - expect others on the route - just relax and enjoy it - it's a fun day. There is also an optional 1st pitch that is a direct approach to the base of Durrance which is fairy nice as well. |
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Did bon homme and people said to do walt bailey. The grades on bon homme are very good as they don't feel too sandbagged as long as you have good technique. Both get to the top if you do the meadows ramble, or reverse the jump traverse and do the walt bailey var on durrance. I don't think i'll ever do durrance as it is a CONGA LINE and it attracts people who know less than nothing about offwidth. |
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+1 for Soler and Assembly Line. If you climb at that grade, skip Durrance and go straight for Soler. Doesn't get much better than Assembly Line. And once you've done it, you'll know how it got its name. |
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TAD's rad. I don't understand the persistent hate for the route. Sure the belay isn't the most comfy in the world (hint: it is much better to belay with your feet on the chockstone), but the first 100' of the second pitch is a fantastic section of rock and makes the route. The TAD sucks mantra is mostly propagated by those who haven't climbed it. Are there better routes at the Tower, of course, but not many at the grade and the others all have much more "wide". |
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Just my 2 cents. If you do durance, do the "bowling alley" approach pitch and the walt bailey direct finish (instead of the jump traverse). This will give you a complete bottom to top ascent. The approach is short. Paved trail to some switchbacks. An early start isn't a bad idea. |
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Thanks guys! Great beta. |
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One nalgene for a party of two in the summer sun on the Durrance route is not going to be enough for most typical Durrance route teams. |
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It's been hot as hell at DT. I think Durrance is in full sun for most of the day, since it's south-facing -- another reason to start early. |
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Durrance is in the shade until about 8:30am right now. It goes back into the shade around 2:45 in the afternoon. If you climb it in the shade, you won't be in too bad a shape bringing 1L of water a piece. If you're in the sun, bring at least twice as much... |