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Above average belayer, attempt at mathematical humor

Original Post
amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20

Someone quipped in other thread that belayers are like drivers, all of them think they are better than average, but half are not (or something along those lines). That was, of course, not a very original quip, since the topic of the " above average effect" has been quite extensively studied, even has wiki page - illusory superiority

I, of course, might consider myself an above average belayer (not really), but under what conditions would that consideration be true?

So, let's evaluate belaying on scale 1-10. 10 is good, 1 is on the opposite end of good.
We have Amy, rated 10, Bob - 10, Chrissy - 10, and the long list of other names, all rated 10, with Zach bringing up the rear with a rather disappointing 1.
All in all, 23 belayers rated at 10, 1 belayer rated at 1.
Average belaying skill is 9.6. Number of belayers above this average belaying skill is, surprisingly, 23. In other words, everyone but one belayer in this quite exceptional group of belayers is a better than an average belayer.
Funny that, right?

BTW, if you know anything about normal distributions, please refrain from overly constructive critique ;)

Mathias · · Loveland, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 306

Quite an interesting thought really. Do you think it has anything to do with a desire to do well?

For example:

- Climbing: totally optional. so only people who want to climb will do so. Those who do, generally want to do it well. So I would assume that given what you wrote, more climbers would be above average than below it.

- Belaying: goes hand-in-hand with climbing. It's not an activity anyone chooses to do, but if you want to climb (lead climbing or following) you really need to belay. In this situation I would think that the division of above average and below average may be more even, as it's task rather than the fun part of climbing. (I'm sure some people enjoy belaying; I do. But fewer than enjoy climbing, is to be expected.)

- Driving: as most driving is simply for commuting purposes, it's more of a chore than a pasttime or hobby for most people, most of the time. It's hard to say what makes a good driver, but let's assume that keeping pace with traffic flow, following the rules of the road, and being attentive are all important factors. Is it possible that most drivers are in fact below average?

jdberndt · · Seattle, WA · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 200
amarius wrote:BTW, if you know anything about normal distributions, please refrain from overly constructive critique ;)
Ceiling effect. I belay at 11.
Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,648
amarius wrote:Someone quipped in other thread that belayers are like drivers, all of them think they are better than average, but half are not (or something along those lines).
Well, if they said that "half are not", then they must have been using the median as their definition of average and not the mean, so in your example there would in fact be no one who is above average, there would be 9 average belayers and 1 below average belayer, but obviously this isn't a very realistic scenario or sample size.
amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20
kennoyce wrote: Well, if they said that "half are not", then they must have been using the median as their definition of average and not the mean.
Them are big words. I am quite sure the quipper has very limited idea what medians, estimators, variances, skewed, normal, uniform distributions are.
Lee Davis · · Belen, NM · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 350

How do you set up a belay? I am a traditionalist (started climbing in 1967), and so, a 'belay' for me is to sit behind a saddle horn type formation, and have the rope securely around my waist, with gloves. Also, the hands are never removed from the rope, but rather 'slid' up an increment. I have since had hanging belays, nude belays, and some very odd (though well protected) belays. Held a number of falls, but never had a problem. After all, the belay is only as good as the number of points of protection that the climber has in.
..... My old Partner, Dick Ingraham (see: Dick Ingraham, in the New Mexico forum)fell 100 feet one time. Del Boyer held him, but severly burned his hands. Now, that is belaying! Lee Davis

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0
Dylan B. wrote:You know what the pollsters say: the average person has one breast and one testicle. What we're really looking for is the median belaying ability. If you take a more realistic spread, say 10 9 8 8 8 8 8 7 4 1 Then your median score is "eight," and the bulk of belayers are "average," and the majority average or above average.
No, the average person has 2 breast. Guys have breast as well as women, they are just alot smaller!
Nathan D Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 402
jdberndt wrote: Ceiling effect. I belay at 11.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UeOXsA8sp_E
"These go to eleven."
Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145
csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330

How many people just clicked on your profile to see if there are pictures to check your "belaying" skills?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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