First Time to Devil's Lake, any help?

I am from the west and climbed a lot in the Black Hills of South Dakota. I have my own rope, quickdraws and toprope anchor set (2 20ft loops of chord). I moved to Wisconsin in 2012 and this will be my first climbing trip since moving out here. I know nothing about Devil's Lake. Upon a quick search it looks like there are no sport routes so I won't need quickdraws. I have no trad gear so it looks like toprope is it. I will be meeting two friends down there and we will probably camp as it's quite a drive for them.

What are other things that I will need. I will have to be the guide so they don't seem too experienced in climbing. What are some good places to start out climbing out here? It will probably be limited to 5.6-5.8 for them. I am out of shape so I don't want to go too hard either.

Are there decently marked trails to get to the routes? Are there drilling clips for anchoring or will I need strap to wrap around a tree/rock?

I live in Appleton, so is there a place to buy the guidebook? Devil's lake looks like the closest thing to me for any decent climbing so I will probably come back here in the future.

We are looking to go this weekend friday-sunday (Aug 28-30) if anyone else will be around here that is similar skill level to us.

Any help is appreciated.

Kyle, buddy, there are lots of threads on Devil's Lake to answer these very questions. Somebody will probably be kind enough to link them for you.

Depending on your camping preference, start making phone calls now. Most sites fill up.

All natural anchors or supply your own trad gear (which you lack). Don't set your anchors across trails.

You can buy the guidebook at Wildside Adventure Sports in Baraboo or use Prime shipping from Amazon.

There are some good tips in this

But there are no fixed anchors. All toprope anchors must be set by you either on gear or slinging boulders/trees. Since you have no trad gear you will probably need more than 2 20ft cords for anchors.

Be ready for sandbagging at the lake. There at 5.8's at the lake that can shut down many 5.10 climbers. Climb some really easy stuff first to get a feel for the rock and grades; this is very unique climbing. There are many good suggestions in that thread.

Trails are marked well but it can still be hard to find routes. Talk to people when you get up there and they should be able to point you in the right direction for many well known climbs.

The best guidebook for Devil's Lake is by Sven Olof Swartling and can be purchased at several Baraboo area shops and campgrounds. It's also sold at the REI in Brookfield, WI and on Madison's west side. Boulders Climbing Gym in Madison now carries the guidebook as well.

ALSO. You are less than 2 hours from Necedah which is AMAZING! Great sport climbing and tons of great trad lines (tho u have no gear yet, but TR).

As for camping at the lake you might want to book sites in advance. The lake fills up quick. Wheelers campground is 5 minutes from the lake and it's very nice. If you really need a place to stay that basically always has room theres Double KD ranch campground though it is not very nice. (I wouldn't use their showers but ehh who needs a shower?)

Hopefully that helps get you started!

Joel Allen wrote:ALSO. You are less than 2 hours from Necedah which is AMAZING! Great sport climbing and tons of great trad lines

AJ Leiden wrote: +1 for Necedah. Also look to Hillbilly Hollow for a similar feel as Necedah but with less to climb. The Lake is friggin awesome but there's a good deal of quality climbing hiding around the state if you look for it.

yah don't go to DL. its slippery and sandbagged. and there's not enough trees for TR'ing. even if there are trees close to the cliff, it's almost impossible to set a TR safely without years of experience. i hear there's a gym in madison.

/s

Kyle Rabine wrote: Would necedah be a better start than investing in all the gear for devils lake? Are there camp sites around there?

Also don't forget there is great sport climbing at Grandad's in La Crosse with plenty of camping opportunities in La Crosse. Though be aware that everything has to be led at Grandad's as there is no easy top access.

Hey Kyle,
I am also in Appleton and have climbed at Devils Lake a good amount. If you want to head out there together I can show you around the place, the intricacies of setting a DL top-rope and hopefully not ending up on the clusterfuck thread, and plus we could save some coin on gas. Also, if you want to check out the local chossfest crag High Cliff (it does have a few decent routes, plus good bouldering) it is only 15 minutes away from Appleton. Send me a PM.

Wheelers campground has been described to me as "the climbers' campground". They have a small selection of gear for sale in their little shop, which probably includes the guidebook. If you showed up there without any more gear than you currently have, you could pick up more webbing, guidebook and a few nuts and be able to set some topropes.

Definitely start on easier stuff! In addition to being slick rock, DL ratings are tough for the grade compared to some areas.

alpinejason wrote: If you just want to clip bolts go to Necedah. Invest some time/money into trad gear and learning to place it well, you'll be hard pressed to find better climbing than at DL. Buckhorn State Park for camping around Necedah.

Necedah is fairly easy to find routes. Much easier than Devils Lake. I don't believe there is a guidebook though.

Joel Allen wrote:Necedah is fairly easy to find routes. Much easier than Devils Lake. I don't believe there is a guidebook though.

Ah yes. Are you sure it's not Ryan Hansen? But is it available for purchase anywhere? Thanks Mike!

Joel Allen wrote:Ah yes. Are you sure it's not Ryan Hansen? But is it available for purchase anywhere? Thanks Mike!

Nvm I got it. It is Ryan Hansen. Thanks though!

Everything to climb at Necedah is on MP. I saw to that personally ;)

DL? FUGGGGGGIN SUX!!

Tradoholic wrote:Everything to climb at Necedah is on MP. I saw to that personally ;) DL? FUGGGGGGIN SUX!!