Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 240 ft (73 m), 3 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Jacob Warren, Mike Stimola: Aug 2015 |
| Page Views: | 1,538 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | jakobi on Aug 21, 2015 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This is a striking path that ascends the SE face of the Shabazz Palace. The route essentially follows three cracks which open and shut; when one crack closes another opens up allowing further progress. Some soft rock is encountered but for the most part is pretty good. There are several roofs to be negotiated and the entire route overhangs 30 feet or so.
P1: Ascend the crack system through some soft rock passing a short roof. Above the crack pinches shut- I hammered two pins here but subsequent ascents will likely go clean. Switch cracks out right and ride it up and through a wild roof. Make another crack switch above the roof and continue through mostly straight-forward aiding to a two bolt hanging belay. C2+/A1
P2: Follow the crack off the belay until it closes and switch out left into another crack, follow this up making yet another crack switch back right, continue through a small roof to a two bolt belay at a small stance. C1+.
P3: Easy aiding off the belay to another crack switch and another short roof. Climb into a slot and aid around the spooky coffin block, clip a bolt out right and manage through some technical sugar to reach the cleft below the summit. Easy free climbing leads to a nice flat summit and a two bolt anchor. C2/5.4.
P1: Ascend the crack system through some soft rock passing a short roof. Above the crack pinches shut- I hammered two pins here but subsequent ascents will likely go clean. Switch cracks out right and ride it up and through a wild roof. Make another crack switch above the roof and continue through mostly straight-forward aiding to a two bolt hanging belay. C2+/A1
P2: Follow the crack off the belay until it closes and switch out left into another crack, follow this up making yet another crack switch back right, continue through a small roof to a two bolt belay at a small stance. C1+.
P3: Easy aiding off the belay to another crack switch and another short roof. Climb into a slot and aid around the spooky coffin block, clip a bolt out right and manage through some technical sugar to reach the cleft below the summit. Easy free climbing leads to a nice flat summit and a two bolt anchor. C2/5.4.
3 Comments