Do you stick clip?

RandyR wrote: I think you have a different route than Bloody Fingers in mind. I don't remember a single bolt on that thing until the chains at the top.

Hmmm...yeah, I think you're right. I do remember some climb that is what I described but damned if I can remember the name.

csproul wrote: How about I climb the route how ever the fuck I want to climb the route?

Agreed. I climb because I love it and it's fun. I like "minimize" risk so I'm around to climb another day. If it's bolted, I stick clip it, no matter what the grade is. I just want to enjoy the experience, I'm not worried how that route was developed. If I have to take additional steps to take decrease a ground fall risk, I'm going to, even if that means placing gear. But hey that's just my way of going about things.

Marc801 wrote: It kinda depends on the area and local ethics. City of Rocks (ID) has the ethic that if there's a natural/trad placement available at the right spot, then there won't be a bolt there, even on the rap-bolted sport lines. Some great examples there: * Lots of climbers get schooled on Bloody Fingers (10a) when they take only draws and get to the final 25' of 5.9 finger crack - with the last bolt 10+ feet below them. * Riding on an Incline (11a) is all bolted, except for the 10d move that will have you whimpering if you didn't bring a #3 cam. * Tennish Anyone (10a) is bolt protected - except for the first 40' that needs an assortment of trad gear.

COR is not a sport climbing area by any stretch of the imagination. Are there sport routes at the city, of course, but you don't go to the city just to sport climb (at least no one that I know does), so you should have your rack with you anyway. If an area is pure sport or mostly sport with that one crack line that rarely gets done, then it should be bolted with the assumption that most people climbing there won't bother to bring the rack.

Russ Keane wrote:If you stick clip below 5.12 I don't think you are really climbing the route correctly.

Jake Jones wrote: Hmmm... this seems to contrast with earlier sentiments here :

+++
Thank you Jake Jones.

Probably the best approach Scott^. I'm a bold climber and can use a (protected fall) every now and then. I have yet to take a fall on ropes. I know I've been climbing below my ability and when I'm able to hook up with someone that can push me, I'm sure my mindset will change.

kennoyce wrote: COR is not a sport climbing area by any stretch of the imagination. Are there sport routes at the city, of course, but you don't go to the city just to sport climb (at least no one that I know does), so you should have your rack with you anyway. If an area is pure sport or mostly sport with that one crack line that rarely gets done, then it should be bolted with the assumption that most people climbing there won't bother to bring the rack.

+1 - I totally agree. It's just that a lot of people get lured into a sport climbing approach and then get spanked.

JoeGaribay wrote:... I'm a bold climber and can use a (protected fall) every now and then. I have yet to take a fall on ropes...

Huh?

Lol ^^^^ I'm confused about that one too. Seems pretty contradictory to claim that you're bold, but also that you don't push yourself... Also, how do you know that you could use a fall "every now and then," if you've never a taken fall on the rope?

Almost always, when possible. I like climbing more than twisted ankles and such.

Credentials: Once time, I fell on a rope.

Is that a bike helmet?

No offense, but this topic has already been covered ad nauseam. Example: mountainproject.com/v/do-yo…

I think the overwhelming consensus is that most people prefer to lower the risk of injury when the climbing is extremely difficult or unusually long before the first clip, or if the landing area is dangerous. As for FAist intentions and purity... it's sport climbing. Sport is for pushing physical limits safely. If you want to stay "pure", climb trad.

ha, also this: csproul: "How about I climb the route how ever the fuck I want to climb the route?"

Right on.

Let me explain. I will try about any route that I have enough strength and balance to hang on to. I have climbed in the 5.11 range. I don't get nervous or scared easily. I think having a good whip or fall would do me good by understanding my limits. I say bold because a long run out isn't worrisome if I can hang on. Maybe it would scare me if I fell on a run out. The reason I haven't pushed myself enough is because the people I know and am able to climb with, are scared and like easy routes. So I rarely get the chance to climb anything over a 5.8/5.9. I know I can run up about any 5.10a/b with ease. I'm sure there are 5.10 that would get me pumped.
I hope this clears things up a bit and helps all of you to understand what I mean. Though I've been climbing since I was in diapers, getting on ropes is fairly new to me. I have a lot to learn and even more to experience. Thank you for all your input and criticism. I don't take anything as a personally. Be negative towards me or help me out. It's all welcome. So far everyone has been helpful. Thanks again. I respect all of you and the lessons you've learned.

You're confusing "bold" with "inexperienced."

Joe..... Economic (sp) is one of the worst protected roots in the history of climbing..... its TOTAL BS to think that anything is added by running it out on shit choss.

Sport climbing is "sport" and nothing is added by making people lug a cam up there. Your a Wheeler local, talk to those other guys and fix that mess. Take care of your crag.

Perhaps, adrenalated. But have me follow behind you on any route you'd think I would flail on and you'd probably understand what I mean. I may not be the strongest climber but I have a no quit desire and will to succeed and get better with everything I do.

doligo wrote: Most bold routes were put by crusty old dudes when they were young, strong and stupid in proper climbing shoes (assuming it is anything harder than 5.10). Now they've grown up, they're all enjoying clipping bolts and they wouldn't tell you this, but they do own stick clips!

Amen

JoeGaribay wrote:Perhaps, adrenalated. But have me follow behind you on any route you'd think I would flail on and you'd probably understand what I mean. I may not be the strongest climber but I have a no quit desire and will to succeed and get better with everything I do.

That still dosent make you a bold climber...

Thanks Guy! I'm glad I posted this thread. I've learned a lot about keeping sport sport and trad trad. I will talk to someone out there. Though I rarely see anyone. But I'll do what I can. I sent you a message about the info you talked about. Thanks

I guess I need to figure that one out then, Oakie. Not trying to be anyone I'm not. Feel free to explain my faults and correct my wording if you wish. I will continue to make mistakes. Hopefully not repeated ones.

Sending skills, or hospital bills.

My skills are often found to be lacking. Stick is my insurance.