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Bonneville Williams
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Aug 20, 2015
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Salt Lake City, Utah
· Joined Dec 2013
· Points: 145
I'm looking to head down to Indian Creek for my first time this fall. In preparation I've been climbing Bushwhack Crack in LCC a lot. The only other splitter type crack I can think of is Climb and Punishment in BCC. Can anyone recommend any other routes that are similar to these? Thanks!
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zoso
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Aug 20, 2015
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2007
· Points: 790
Honestly the best training for IC is the gym. If you don't have a membership, go a few times and pay the day fee. It'll be worth it.
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Bonneville Williams
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Aug 20, 2015
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Salt Lake City, Utah
· Joined Dec 2013
· Points: 145
Zoso, Are you talking about Momentum or The Front? I have a membership at The Front but their crack wall sucks. It's just some painted wood and super slick.
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Paul Wilhelmsen
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Aug 20, 2015
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sandy, ut
· Joined Aug 2012
· Points: 231
If you wanna get a day or two in at the sandy momentum, before August ends, pm me, I've got 2 guest passes left for August and really need to work my crack game anyways.
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Daniel Winder
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Aug 20, 2015
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2009
· Points: 101
Handeater into Bongeater will teach you how to jam at a grade similar to what you'll see in the creek. No laybacking! Or is it liebacking? Check out Burner if you plan on doing some wide. IC is really about endurance, so get your jams (hand and foot) dialed.
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Travis Haussener
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Aug 20, 2015
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2012
· Points: 60
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Kauait
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Aug 21, 2015
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West is the best.
· Joined Aug 2015
· Points: 0
Danial nailed it.. endurance!! Jump on any of the suggestions and prolong them... up, down,chill. Just make it as long as you can. Oh yeah if it's not hurting like hell. Somethings wrong.. I can't remember the name. But I believe it was a 1* 11ish climb by the waterfront. Which had some great (diverse) steep jambing. I will check my book later when I'm around it and respond later.
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tenesmus
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Aug 24, 2015
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jan 2004
· Points: 3,023
Do laps on the admittedly short crack section of El Chollo. Sure, it's short but the footwork needed will keep you honest. Do the coffin without using any face holds on the main crack section. do will tell you to drop your heels on both. Tom Hore did a nice .11a crack below the coffin that might be good. And as crazy as it might sound, aiding and trying the occasional free move on Fallen Arches will also help you remember how fiercely you need to jam. Good luck.
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Bonneville Williams
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Aug 24, 2015
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Salt Lake City, Utah
· Joined Dec 2013
· Points: 145
Thanks for all the great input guys! Working together a good game plan to get trained up for the trip. Keep the great comments coming! =)
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Reuben Cousin
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Aug 24, 2015
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Salt Lake City
· Joined Jul 2012
· Points: 15
probably the best way to train for the creek is to go to the creek! Which I can't wait to do myself :)
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Brendan N
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Aug 24, 2015
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Salt Lake City, Utah
· Joined Oct 2006
· Points: 405
zoso nailed it. You need endurance for straight-in no-nonsense cracks. Momentum will give you both endurance and technique with a very reasonable approach.
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