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Non-Climbing Day Exercise

Original Post
Eric LaRoche · · West Swanzey, NH · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 25

What are people doing for exercise on non-climbing days? Also what are you doing for antagonist muscle exercises and when?

Right now my days between climbing is just running 4-5 miles.

dylan grabowski · · Denver · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 95
Eric LaRoche wrote:What are people doing for exercise on non-climbing days? Also what are you doing for antagonist muscle exercises and when? Right now my days between climbing is just running 4-5 miles.
I do a calisthenics circuit. This week it looks like archer pushups, explosive pullups, pistols, bar dips, and l-sit holds. Do as many rounds possible in 40 minutes. But sometimes I also do this at lunch on climbing days, and climb in the evening.
Steven Groetken · · Durango, CO · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 390

Mountain bike in the warm months, splitboard when there's snow. Probably not the best activities for climbing cross training since they add volume to the legs, but still better than chilling on the couch.

evan h · · Longmont, CO · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 360

I think people generally don't rest enough. I do some stretching or light antagonist work on rest days (good for blood flow and recovery too), but you have to be careful to not introduce additional exercise that drains energy. A lot of days I do nothing. If you're truly training, rest is critical to making gains. I personally think anything other than very light running is probably not helping. It's taking away from your energy stores and its contributing to bulk in your legs. Additionally it takes more calories to keep up with it all!

WoodyW · · Alaska · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 70

I do Olympic weightlifting mostly and a little CrossFit on active rest days. I love Olympic lifting because it's only 2 movements (technically 3, but 2 are combined into 1 lift) and it doesn't focus on one muscle like most "gym bros" focus on at a time. You use your whole body, every time. Besides weightlifting, I do pull ups, hand holds, etc, on my metolius training board. Its been a great for grip strength.

BBQ · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 554

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This pretty much sums up a non-climbing day for me.

Joy likes trad · · Southern California · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 71
B. Climbin' wrote: This pretty much sums up a non-climbing day for me.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/110881891

This
Jon Zucco · · Denver, CO · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 245

At least 40 minutes of leg strength training per week. Don't skip leg day.

Circuits like Dylan G mentions are great for a cardio and resistance all-in one-session. I do these or short free weights sessions during lunch and often also on days when I plan to climb later in the evening.

Opposing groups, shoulders, elbow, and wrist prehab. I try to do strength, and eccentric exercises for these areas at least twice a month, and often once a week, and typically on a "rest" day but not always.

Not exactly an "exercise", but foam rollers and stretching. Roll out your legs and glutes regularly. Roll or self massage your forearms and upper arms. Stretch everything often.

Joe Coover · · Sheridan, WY · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 20
B. Climbin' wrote: This pretty much sums up a non-climbing day for me.
Lots of biceps curls huh?
Ashort · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 56

Cycling

Yoga

Trail running, just trying this one, painful so far!

Core stuff, pushups, situps etc

Yeah, and of course some 12oz curls

John Byrnes · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 392
Eric LaRoche wrote:What are people doing for exercise on non-climbing days? Also what are you doing for antagonist muscle exercises and when? Right now my days between climbing is just running 4-5 miles.
I do my antagonistic work immediately after a climbing workout/outing or the next day. Once a week.

Running, and most of the exercises mentioned here, isn't really "active recovery" because it doesn't use your upper-body's climbing muscles.

It's amazing how rarely anyone mentions swimming. It's perfect for the day after hard climbing as well as rehabilitation.

There's no impact. It's aerobic. It's full body but focuses on the shoulders/arms/core. And you can be done in 15-45 minutes. (15min/300m if I'm really sore. 45min/1200m if I'm not.)

If you do crawl, backstroke & sidestroke, you use all the shoulder and rotator-cuff muscles in a gentle, full ROM manner which increases blood-flow for more rapid recovery. You can also reach/stretch on each stroke, increasing your ROM and mobility.

Considering such large numbers of shoulder injuries & surgeries in the climbing population, you'd think swimming would be #1 for the day-after.
The Call Of K2 Lou · · Squamish, BC · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 20

In the words of Barry Blanchard: "A date with Mrs. Thumb and her four daughters."

Joe Coover · · Sheridan, WY · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 20
John Byrnes wrote: I do my antagonistic work immediately after a climbing workout/outing or the next day. Once a week. Running, and most of the exercises mentioned here, isn't really "active recovery" because it doesn't use your upper-body's climbing muscles. It's amazing how rarely anyone mentions swimming. It's perfect for the day after hard climbing as well as rehabilitation. There's no impact. It's aerobic. It's full body but focuses on the shoulders/arms/core. And you can be done in 15-45 minutes. (15min/300m if I'm really sore. 45min/1200m if I'm not.) If you do crawl, backstroke & sidestroke, you use all the shoulder and rotator-cuff muscles in a gentle, full ROM manner which increases blood-flow for more rapid recovery. You can also reach/stretch on each stroke, increasing your ROM and mobility. Considering such large numbers of shoulder injuries & surgeries in the climbing population, you'd think swimming would be #1 for the day-after.
I would always suggest to do all of the stretches and various methods of strengthening to prevent tennis elbow/golfers elbow/rotator cuff issues. Swimming will actually cause an increase in problems in my opinion. Swimmers actually get "swimmers shoulder" which is resulting from overuse injuries and can be caused by the freestyle, back, and the butterfly stroke. The two major causes is poor form and swimming when your larger muscles are tired (e.g. the day after a hard climbing session).

I am not saying this should be eliminated from YOUR exercise plan. However, if someone doesn't have expert form and starts swimming because of your suggestion, they are MORE likely to have issues in the future with their rotator cuff.

Just my 2 cents.
JWatt · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 25
John Byrnes wrote: I do my antagonistic work immediately after a climbing workout/outing or the next day. Once a week. Running, and most of the exercises mentioned here, isn't really "active recovery" because it doesn't use your upper-body's climbing muscles. It's amazing how rarely anyone mentions swimming. It's perfect for the day after hard climbing as well as rehabilitation. There's no impact. It's aerobic. It's full body but focuses on the shoulders/arms/core. And you can be done in 15-45 minutes. (15min/300m if I'm really sore. 45min/1200m if I'm not.) If you do crawl, backstroke & sidestroke, you use all the shoulder and rotator-cuff muscles in a gentle, full ROM manner which increases blood-flow for more rapid recovery. You can also reach/stretch on each stroke, increasing your ROM and mobility. Considering such large numbers of shoulder injuries & surgeries in the climbing population, you'd think swimming would be #1 for the day-after.
Good luck keeping your callouses!

No way would i ever swim on a rest day. Stress on the shoulders, and soaking the skin. Nope. Bad times.
John Byrnes · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 392
JWatt wrote: Good luck keeping your callouses!
No biggie. I have to sand off my calluses anyway.

JWatt wrote:No way would i ever swim on a rest day. Stress on the shoulders, and soaking the skin. Nope. Bad times.
Says the person who's never done it, and hasn't a clue.
highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35
JWatt wrote: Good luck keeping your callouses! No way would i ever swim on a rest day. Stress on the shoulders, and soaking the skin. Nope. Bad times.
This is utter BS.

I can't think of too many activities that would better add strength and stability to shoulders. He didn't say he was going to twenty 50 meter butterfly sprints.

Callouses? You sound like a n00b. Every experienced climber I know meticulously sands their hands, lotions them, some even lube up and sleep in gloves. The idea is thick and flexible. Hard callouses crack and bleed. Cracks peel when healing causing more cracks. The whole thing is a mess.

One of my favorite DWS cliffs was a 20 minute swim for the approach since the top of the cliff was a bunch of people's yards. I'd throw my gear in the dry bag and swim over, climb for quite a while, and swim back. The limestone was sharp and rough. Never ever did I get a flapper to that.
JWatt · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 25
highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion wrote: This is utter BS. You sound like a n00b.
Bro. Do you even hangboard?
Joe Garibay · · Ventura, Ca · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 86

Stay active. If I'm not climbing, I surf, hike, golf, frolf, cornhole, darts, horseshoes, etc...... Whatever I can do to move around and compete against others. Competition adds drive and desire

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35
JWatt wrote: Bro. Do you even hangboard?
Bro, I'm exercising my mountain project right to call the 5.13 climber a n00b.

What I do have is awful skin. Like the worst. If swimming and climbing helps keep my skin in check, I can only imagine what it would do to people with good skin. FWIW, when I was climbing my hardest, about your level, I was swimming in the ocean several times a week.
John Byrnes · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 392
Joe Coover wrote: I would always suggest to do all of the stretches and various methods of strengthening to prevent tennis elbow/golfers elbow/rotator cuff issues. Swimming will actually cause an increase in problems in my opinion. Swimmers actually get "swimmers shoulder" which is resulting from overuse injuries and can be caused by the freestyle, back, and the butterfly stroke. The two major causes is poor form and swimming when your larger muscles are tired (e.g. the day after a hard climbing session). I am not saying this should be eliminated from YOUR exercise plan. However, if someone doesn't have expert form and starts swimming because of your suggestion, they are MORE likely to have issues in the future with their rotator cuff. Just my 2 cents.
Total nonsense.

Of course competitive swimmers get overuse injuries! Doing ANYTHING to excess will injure you, even typing, mousing and being a couch potato.

It's almost impossible to hurt yourself swimming, even if you have horrible form. There's no impact, no minimum level of effort, no minimum strength required, no minimum ROM required. Compare that to hang boarding, weight lifting, running or just about any other activity.

PERHAPS, if you were a shitty swimmer and swam as hard as you could, for as long as you could, every day, you MIGHT hurt your shoulders. But you'd probably just drown.
20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346

CrossFit





It will make you a believer.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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