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All Locations > New Hampshire > WM: Zealand Valley > Mt Oscar
When views of Sugarloaf open up, you're close (taken May, 2010)
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Mt. Oscar
Peet Danen (Jon Sykes belaying) embarking on the wide crack of Bi-Polar Brain Flush 5.9, 100'. Photo Jamie Cunningham.
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Robert Hall
Aug 23, 2015
“When views of Sugarloaf open up, you're close (taken May, 2010)”  

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Nearby Photos

10/6/16 view of the Zealand River Valley from Mt Oscar while climbing on the Bretton Woods Ski Area's 'West Wall'.
Overview photo of Mt. Oscar. Showing the right side of the main Mt. Oscar cliff in relationship to the "West Wall*" of Mt. Oscar. [* which is actually East of the "Lower Wall". Name comes from ski area's "West Mt."]
A beautiful sunset while walking back to the car.
1. Crescent 5.7 <br> This nice 5.7 starts at the obvious right facing flake and crack start (defines boundary between two walls) then trends up and left and finishes on slabs above and out of sight. There is a bolted direct finish to this climb as well called Doh! (think Homer Simpson). <br> FA: Joe and Judy Perez <br> <br> Variation 1a: Direct Finish 5.11a <br> FA: Jon Sykes & <br> <br> 2. ___?_______ 5.9 75’ <br> Climb the center bolted face to two bolt belay. <br> <br> VARIATION 2a: DIRECT FINISH 5.11b 50’ <br> Five bolts to the top. <br> FA: Jon Sykes & Mike Lee <br> FFA: Chris Marks & Jon Sykes Spring 2010 <br> <br> 3. _____?______ 5.9 110’ <br> Slab/face with series of bolts leading to 15 foot crack leading to a white prow. Crack converts to a left facing corner that defines the left side of the prow. <br> <br> 4. Ben Zen Send 5.8 100’ <br> Start at left facing flake that leads to a left ascending diagonal crack. Traverse 10’ on this crack and climb face above that links three intermittent crescent cracks to the top. Can seep after rainy days. <br> FA: Ben Mirkin & Jon Sykes Spring 2009 <br> <br> 5. Moose Spirit 5.10- 120’ <br> Right facing flake (to right of Ben Zen Send). Climb flake through overlap to bolt. Climb straight up to 25’ exit crack. <br> History: Jon Sykes put in the bolts believing that he was doing the original ascent. Ben Savage and Bill Kieler claimed an earlier ascent. <br> ACB: Ben Savage & Bill Kieler
Peet Danen leading the FA of the lower section of Rancid.
Chris Marks, belayed by Jon Sykes, about to make the crux step left on Touch of Grey, 5.9, 120'. This one of the early routes put up by Uwe Schneider in the late 1980's.
Mt. Oscar's lower Main Wall and upper 'Bretton Woods Ski Area West Wall'. Photo also shows a helicopter ferrying loads to Zealand Hut.
15 minute walk along a grassy old logging road leads to the climbers trail, marked by a cairn (shown bottom center in this photo). 10 minutes up the hill to go
Adirondack Guidebook author Jim Lawyer sizing up the transition step from face to crack on the superb route Touch of Grey 5.9, 120'. Photo by Jamie Cunningham
Mt. Oscar
When views of Sugarloaf open up, you're close (taken May, 2010)
Peet Danen (Jon Sykes belaying) embarking on the wide crack of Bi-Polar Brain Flush 5.9, 100'. Photo Jamie Cunningham.
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