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Top managed belay technique

Original Post
Benjixxx · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 0

Was wondering if anyone has some advice to pass on for a specific situation I find myself in at the top of single pitch routes or when you top out on multi pitch routes.

When setting up my anchor at the top I find its fine if I can find something to anchor off that sits above me but when all I can find is protection thats at ground level (ie the ground at the top of the cliff) I find that when the second weights the rope it obviously wants to pull down onto the ground..

I know my description of the situation isn't ideal but i'm sure many of you have been in the same situation and know what i'm talking about. Any advice or links to a video with a good solution?

keithconn · · LI, NY · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 35

Don't know if I'm misinterpreting your question, but a guide ATC? Would that do the trick? There is a lowering technique that I use that I'm not going to get into right now, but belaying from the top no matter on the ground or from a suspended anchor seems that a Gide atc would do the job fine.

BigFeet · · Texas · Joined May 2014 · Points: 385

You can build your anchor at the top, as usual. Extend this master point so that it provides you a comfortable position at the edge to go in direct to the anchor yourself, and belay off your belay loop/harness.

Larry S · · Easton, PA · Joined May 2010 · Points: 872

Anchor yourself, sit down, and belay directly off your harness, no redirect.

mark felber · · Wheat Ridge, CO · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 41

^^ This. I belay with a Guide ATC, and when possible I use it in guide mode to bring up a second, but if I can't situate the anchor master point above me I just anchor myself and belay off my harness/belay loop. Works at the top of the climb and it works on intermediate pitches if the anchor is too low to the ledge. And yes, your description is quite clear.

Jeremy Bauman · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,067

@Benjixxx

The situation you describe happens frequently, but there are so many variations that the best anchor and belay technique in each instance varies greatly. Best suggestion, hire a guide for a day to take you out and teach you.

That said, here are a couple options.

If the top of the cliff is more of a roll than an edge, tether yourself to the anchor and position yourself so that you can see your climber and can lean back on the anchor with a lot of your weight still on your feet. Belay from a high master point directly from the anchor.

If the top of the climb is blocky, set your master point below a block at chest height and belay from there.

If the top of your climb is a right angle (like you were belaying from the top of a square) try to keep your master point two or so feet from the lip. Position yourself with a tether so that you can sit on the edge and belay directly from the anchor next to you.

If you can use large boulders or a huge tree for your top anchor, try to create a high master point so that the angle the rope takes over the edge is as big as possible. This will also make belaying easier.

Hope this helps!

Benjixxx · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 0

Thanks guys

keithconn · · LI, NY · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 35

Always thought this was a cool technique which I've used a couple of times to bring my wife up a single pitch. Need some trees though.

youtu.be/RJIKE6aipkE

djh860 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 110

If you can't belay in guide mode use a redirect so if the second weights the rope it will pull you to the anchor not over the edge

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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