Lawyers, Guns & Money
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.2 from 5 votes
Type: | Trad, 140 ft (42 m) |
FA: | "Mark and Brian" |
Page Views: | 1,898 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | George Perkins on Aug 21, 2007 |
Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
Passed by on the approach to the longer Muralla Grande routes, this good clean 1-pitch face climb has enough cracks to keep it from getting scary. Well worth doing if you have extra time and a good weather forecast, but there's always that chance that some other climbers will walk on past, and start up your main plan for the day ahead of you.
Climb the clean face right of the big dihedral. Start near the corner and climb straight up past a lone bolt to reach a 2-bolt anchor. However, it's best to continue and do the whole climb as a single pitch. Soon above this anchor, you'll move right to a finger crack, passing the crux, then angle up and left to a flake. From the flake, go straight up to the upper 2-bolt anchor.
Climb the clean face right of the big dihedral. Start near the corner and climb straight up past a lone bolt to reach a 2-bolt anchor. However, it's best to continue and do the whole climb as a single pitch. Soon above this anchor, you'll move right to a finger crack, passing the crux, then angle up and left to a flake. From the flake, go straight up to the upper 2-bolt anchor.
Location
This route is the first clean face you come to on the approach down Chimney Canyon, at the SE end of Muralla Grande. This climb ascends a striking clean face right of a prominent right-facing corner. The rap slings/bolts are visible from below.
Descent: Rap the route, with one double rope rappel (35m), or 2 single rope rappels (25m+10m).
Descent: Rap the route, with one double rope rappel (35m), or 2 single rope rappels (25m+10m).
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